Volvo 760 engine cuts off frequently while driving?

Motor mount issue.
Many other Volvo users too noticed this problem.


Motor mounts are not the expensive to replace. the stalling can be time consuming to track down depending on how often.

to trace the cause of the stall, with out just throwing parts at it, what will need to be done is fuel pressure and ignition systems monitored while driving waiting for it to stall to see which is missing.

some common failure are fuel pump relay, radio suppression relay(powers fuel injectors) crankshaft sensor, distributor pick up(depending on the year) ignition power stage.

This will help.
Thanks.

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Engine cuts out at 3000 RPM?

If you need dis-assembly or replacement instructions for any other auto/car part, or you want to ask question related to your car/truck jeep problem then please leave the comment with your details, so I can provide you the required instructions and solutions.


Many car users notice this problem,the engine struggles at high rpm and at last quits.


First notice,then do you get steady check engine light on dash,with this problem or not.
If you go to Autozone, Oreilys or Advance, they can scan your vehicle for free.

But if there is no steady check engine light,then there is no error code issue.
They usually do not want to hook up a scanner if the "check engine " light is not on. Some systems will accumulate intermittent codes until enough have registered to set a code.
There are a few things you can try. It would be helpful to whoever works on the vehicle to know if the 3000RPM limit is present in just the final top gear or if the next lower gear can exceed 3000RPM. Sometimes there are built-in limits for a limp home mode. If you can get more RPM in the next lower gear, then fuel pressure should not be the problem.
The Vacuum system problems don't trigger the "Check light" system. A loose vacuum hose or bad intake gasket can be very much possible causing this  problem. Use an old spray bottle filled with plain water and go around the gaskets and vacuum lines when the engine is running. If the RPM changes, you have found your leak.
There should be a TPS on most vehicles. Ask the parts store if you have one. This device is a resistor that works with the gas pedal. It should be on the opposite side of the accelerator cable hookup. When the butterfly valve moves in the Airhorn, the matching pieces operate the TPS or throttle position sensor.
If you unplug the wiring connector and put an ohmmeter on the part(TPS), the ohms will register as you open the throttle. You may have a partially burned out part because the ohms should change all the way through the rotation of the butterfly flap. If you hit a limit before the full rotation, the part is bad and it needs to work to get to the higher RPM.
Check your Vacuum first.

This basic testing and inspecting procedure will help you to troubleshoot the problem.

Thanks.

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