FOR 1995 f150 5.0:
If the distributor use the TFI module? If so look for a thin (1/2 inch) 4 inch long, inch and a half tall thingy with a plug in the 5 oclockish position.
The module is gray in color and distributor has to be out to replace the Ignition module.
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1990/2002 Ford
The owners manual says Ignition module to be mounted to the rear of the left hood hinge on the left fender inner apron.
It costs for about $170.
Aftermarket Ignition module costs about $ 90.
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The TFI module is mounted in a heatsink on the fender on all F150s after year 1991. If yours is faulty the only part worth replacing this with is a another Ford part, none of the aftermarket modules last.After market parts are not performance wise.They are cheap but dont last long.
The ignition module is attached to the driver side sheet metal, in a heat sink bracket with aluminum cooling fins, just below where the hood hinge attaches to the sheet metal. It's held on by two hex head screws.


Replace ignition coil but still no spark,its faulty ignition module.
The usual suspect on your 2.9 for a loss of spark is caused by a failed Ignition module and not the coil, when replacing the module (mounted on the distributor) its also a good idea to replace the stator inside the distributor at the same time. The distributor has to be remove to replace the stator.
Ignition module is pointed with red arrow:---
See the help diagram shown below:----

To remove the screws you will need a 5.5 thin wall metric socket , they also sell a special tool for it for about $8.00 .Start with the Ignition module and if its still has a problem, replace the stator.
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1990 ford e350
The ignition module Location diagram is shown below:---

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1996 Ford f-150
Vehicle cranks,misfires and stalls
Check power to ignition coil.It should have power.
If no power then there is a problem.
But if it has power then check the ground signal,here is the procedure to see if its getting a ground signal trigger.
You will need a test light.Its easily available at local auto part sore or electrical parts store.Hook it up backwards. Hook the alligator clip of the test light and hook it to battery positive, and take the tip of the test light and touch it the signal wire of the coil. The test light should blink when cranking over the engine if its getting a signal. If you use a conventional test light, it will flicker very very dim (so look closely) if the coil is getting a signal to fire the spark.
If the ignition coil is getting battery voltage and a ground signal trigger to fire the spark and is not firing any spark out while cranking the engine over, the ignition coil is bad and will need to be replaced.
If the ignition coil is not getting a ground signal trigger to fire the spark, then either the PCM or the ignition module is going to be at fault. Just be sure to check the inputs before replacing either of them.
see the wiring diagram shown below:---

If all checked ok,then it can be problem with crank sensor itself.
You could have a bad cam or crank sensor. To check them all you have to do is turn the key on and crank. The check engine light should normally come on when the key is turned to the on position, then go off when cranking. The computer turns off the check engine light when it recognizes the crank signal. So if there is a bad crank sensor, the computer will never turn off the check engine light when cranking! If thats the case its time to replace the sensor! Just be sure the wiring is in good shape.If the wires are loose or dirty,then try cleaning the connections and refit it properly and see all works good or not.
Also on this year vehicle, the crank sensor is only used to detect misfires. Engine only needs the signal in the distributor to start and run. If the signal is not getting to engine the crank issues will be noticed.
You can verify this by disconnecting the crank sensor and checking to see if the engine fires up or not.
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1992 Ford Escort
Has power to coil but no Spark at spark plugs
It can be faulty crank sensor or issue with ignition module or a loose timing belt,or timing belt out of alignment or broken timing belt.
In this cases first try common test procedure.This test is signal test.
Does the check engine light come on when the key is turned to on and go out when cranking?
If the check engine light comes on and goes out that means engine rpm signal is coming there to tell the module to fire the coil.But may be module is not doing its job.The ignition module needs testing.
UNDERSTAND THE IGNITION MODULE WORKING THEORY:--
what is there is ignition module?
The Electronic Distributorless Ignition System (EDIS) , consists of a
- Variable Reluctance Sensor (VRS) ,
- an EDIS Module,
- an EEC IV processor and one 4-tower Coil Pack.
This system operates by sending crankshaft position information from the VRS to the EDIS module.
- The module generates a PIP signal and sends it to the EEC IV processor.
- The processor responds with a Spark Angle Word (SAW) signal containing advance or retard timing information back to the EDIS module.
- The module processes VRS and SAW signals and decides which coils to fire.
- In addition, the module generates an Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal to processor which is used to indicate a failure mode and also provide a tach output signal.

On dual cam 1.8L Ignition module is Located under the coil on its mounting bracket:
See the help diagram shown below:----

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1995 Ford Mustang
Ignition module replacing procedure and Location diagram
Ignition Control Module
- Disconnect engine control sensor wiring connector from ignition control module (ICM) (12A297 see diagram below) .
- Remove screws retaining heatsink/ ignition control module to front fender apron (16055) .
- Remove two screws retaining ignition control module to heatsink and remove ignition control module .
- Coat metal baseplate of ignition control module uniformly with silicone compound, approximately 0.79 mm (1/32 inch) thick.
- Use Silicone Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A.Its easily available at parts stores.
- Once this is done .Now position ignition control module onto heatsink and tighten two retaining screws to 1.7-4.0 Nm (15-35 lb-in).
- After that Install ignition control module /heatsink to RH front fender apron . Tighten retaining screws to 10.2-13.8 Nm (90-120 lb-in).
- Connect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) to the ignition control module.
- Test its working to confirm that installation is done right.
- In some rare cases new parts too comes faulty.So check the part quality before installation.But branded parts,that has minor chances of coming faulty,then local Aftermarket parts.

