How to replace motor coupling on washing machines?

This is NOT for older models equipped with a wig-wag transmission that are BELT driven. Read the instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. Just follow the steps provided:

Unplug the unit. The console has to be tilted you most remove two screw to do this one is on the far right the other is on the far left. note the new models under about six years old the screw are on the back of the console. after tilting the console you need to remove to large clips far left and right they're a goldish color use a regular screw driver to pry these out they release at the front of the clip use caution this is the hardest part of the job as a newbie. Now unplug the quick disconnect on the cabinet locate under the console right hand side. Now the cabinet is ready to be removed lift up and forward set cabinet out of your way. Now locate the pump to hose going to it in the middle of the washer at bottom.Remove the two clips no need to remove hose will make water mess pull pump forward and off push to the side out of your way. now two clips on the motor needs removed they're is two screws one on each clip they will be removed 1/4 or 5/16 then remove the clips the motor it will basicly fall off pull it out so you can see the other end of the motor that is where your coupling is located.


The procedure step-by-step:----
Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

• Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
• Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
• Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
• Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
• Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.
• Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.
• Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Make sure you replace BOTH halves of the coupling even if one side appears good.
• Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.
• Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.
• Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.
• Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.
• Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
• Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
• REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
• Reinstall console.

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Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com

pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

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For more help:----Problem related to overfilling.Click the link below:--

Dishwasher fills with water even after turned off?

Washing machine fills with water even after turned off?

How to repair direct drive washing machines?

How to replace lid switch on washing machines?

How to repair direct drive washing machines?

This applies to both their Washing Machines and their Dryers. What compounds this problem is the fact that most of these failures are catastrophic, expensive, and a major parts replacement headache.

Nobody wants to buy a Washer or Dryer that has an average lifespan of 6 months to 2 years, and that is what most of us end up with these days.
This isn't entirely the manufacturers fault however. In an effort to please their customers, many manufacturers try to add innovative features and advancements which make your appliance more user friendly. The competition is often tough and heated with the end result that the manufacturer is often rushed, to market a machine that competes equally with it's name brand rivals.

The case for Front Loading Washing Machines

If you own one, or have owned one in the past, I won't surprise you with the statement that these are the most problematic and troublesome machines in this field. Front Loaders are prone to leak from their silicone aprons, burn out their rear bearings, slip off of their suspension brackets and kill their own motors and brains.

Direct Drive Washing Machines consist of 4 distinct parts.
The pump, the motor, the coupling and the transmission.
All of which can be disassembled and replaced by the least educated among us with very little difficulty.
Basically, if you can change the oil and filter in your car, fill your own dishwasher or de-lime your Mr. Coffee, you have all the skills you need to fix your OWN Direct Drive Washing Machine.

Tools required

1. A standard Flathead Screw Driver (Motor and Water Pump Retention Clips)
2. Water Pump Pliers for hoses (Channel Lock Pliers will also work)
3. A 1/4 inch socket and Handle, or 1/4 inch nut driver.(Motor Nuts)
4. A 9/16 to 5/8 inch socket and 3/8 inch ratchet (Transmission)
5. A 3/8 Socket and 3/8-8 inch extension plus 3/8 ratchet (Agitator)
6. Phillips Screw Driver

Symptoms and Cures

1. Symptom: Leaking water from the front of the washer

Cure: Tighten the Water hoses(Tools #2) to your machine or Replace your water pump (Tools, #1, #2 ) Remove the retention clips that hold your pump to the motor. Squeeze and slide your water pump clamps away from the water pump and remove the hoses, then replace the pump.

2. Symptom: Washer drains the water, but fails to spin or agitate.

Cure: Replace the Lid Switch (Tools #6)

or Replace the motor coupling located directly in front of and attached to the motor by removing the water pump (Tools, #1, #2 ), hoses, then the water pump Retention clips (Tools #1) then the nuts holding the motor clips down (Tools #3).and finally the clips holding the motor (Tools #1).

Pry the plastic tripod shaped plastic piece from both the motor and the transmission (Tools #1) and throw them away along with the Rubber cushion between them. Replace the Tripods with the new coupling partsexactly as they were before removal. The plastic tripods will be tight so you can tap them down flush to the motor shaft and transmission to seat them in place. Replace the rubber dampener on the transmission taking care to match the motor tripod to the empty teardrop shaped holes and seat the motor back in place then clip it all back together. I never replace the screws since they make no difference at all when locking the motor down. The clips are more than enough to keep this all together.

3. Symptom: Washer fills with water, but doesn't spin, agitate or drain, and no motor noise is heard

Cure: Again this may be a lid switch depending on the year and model (Tools #6) or it is the Start upcapacitor (Tools #3 or #5). The capacitor is usually a long 4 to 5 inch black to brown cylinder with 2 electric leads recessed into the head. It is located in one of 3 places. In the head and timer area, Mounted to the back inside wall of the machine or Screwed directly on the motor with a circular bracket. You can usually remove the capacitor easily if it's mounted to the inside wall or the motor. The head/timer area will require you to remove 2 Phillips head screws (Tools #6) slide the head forward and unhook it from the base of the machine.
The capacitor may either be mounted in the head itself, or the top of the steel base.

4. Symptom: Motor spins, water fills, pump drains water, lid switch activates the motor, timer hums but washer neither agitates or spins.

Cure: Replace the transmission.(Tools # 1 through #5). there are 3 bolts that hold the transmission in place, as well as the nut that holds the agitator in place.

I usually remove the agitator bolt first,


then tip the Washing Machine 60 degrees on it's back to access the transmission for this repair, then I remove the wire loom attached to the motor as well as the capacitor if it is screwed to the motor. Then remove the wires from the small plastic loop that locks the motor wire loom in place on the transmission. Next, remove the 3 bolts that hold the transmission to the machine and slide it out without bending the agitator shaft. Replace the transmission with a used or new transmission that exactly matches the old transmission agitator shaft length. Assembly is the exact reverse of disassembly.

5. Symptom: Washer does exactly what it is supposed to do, except that when the lid is opened, the tub makes a howling or grinding noise, and sometimes a shrieking or whistling sound, followed by a burning smell.

Cure: This is caused by the Tub Brake (Clutch) which is located directly on top of the transmission and has a loose rubber noise dampener ring attached to the outside of a shiny silver/chrome looking wheel. Inside this wheel you will find a circular ring with a spring and 2 dog eared bends in it like this /.

This piece is the actual brake (Clutch) shoe, and if every other hole on that shoe does not have a white pad riveted to it, your brake has either begun to fail, or has already failed completely. Replacement is easy, just grab your pliers, squeeze those 2 dog eared bends together and lift it out.
When you install the new one, be careful sliding the transmission back on because there is a white plastic cam on the drum that must be free spinning to activate the brake.


This cam must not rest between the Dog ear bends "/ ( a common mistake) but to either side of them " / or / ".

6. Symptom: Lower Agitator rotates, upper agitator spins freely, Clothes are still dirty.

Cure: Replace your Agitator Dogs.


This is a typical agitator dog replacement kit above, but in most situations, you will only need the 4 beige dogs you see in the picture.
You will need to remove your Agitator bolt to release the agitator assembly. Then you will need to pull the large white piece as seen at the top of the photo straight up to access the dogs directly. Most of the time the entire top half of the agitator breaks free, so don't get excited, this is to be expected. Replace the dogs in the slots provided exactly as they came out with the teeth grabbing the inner rim of the agitator. Then reassemble and bolt in place.

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For NO-SPIN problem on top loader washing machines, this will help:--

Whirlpool manufactured direct-drive TOP LOADING washers with a no-spin problem. This includes Kenmore, Roper, Estate, and certain Kitchenaid, Kelvinator and Maytag models.

The most common source of a no spin problem can either be attributed to a broken motor coupling, or a lid switch malfunction.

MOTOR COUPLING:

If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking.

The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as a "direct-drive" system. They do wear out and can break.

LID SWITCH:

If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and won't advance to the rinse cycle, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The washer usually will NOT drain either. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, then replace it.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly. The average price for a replacement lid switch is $20 - $30.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com

pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

-------------------

For more help:----Problem related to overfilling.Click the link below:--

Dishwasher fills with water even after turned off?

Washing machine fills with water even after turned off?

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