@

Showing posts with label dodge dakota. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dodge dakota. Show all posts

Friday, May 3, 2013

2003 Dodge Dakota Central Timer Module Failure

CTM Failure On Dodge


Multiple Electrical Problem on Dodge 


I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 engine. My SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT comes on dash, headlights turn on and I cant turn them off, windshield wipers only work on high, same with the air conditioning. Also  four wheel drive switch does not light up  but when I take  battery cable off and put them back on. All starts working for awhile then again service light comes back on.


Troubleshooting:

As per problem described this is going to be a CTM failure.

The CTM, or Central Timer Module, is, to put it simply, the brain for the interior. It is the electrical hub for the entire interior now.

You can say when car body computers go bad.The strange interior behavior, instrument cluster or gauge failure, and other issues will be noticed.


WORKING OF CTM (CENTRAL TIMER MODULE)?

The CTM is what sends a wakeup message to the transfer case module when you start the truck. If it doesn't send this message then the module won't wake up, the instrument cluster sees that it's not communicating on the bus so the warning light comes on.


A FAULTY CTM ISSUES: 

The CTM is responsible for interior lighting, exterior lighting and low speed/intermittent wiper functions. When the CTM goes down it can cause an array of different symptoms. I've seen them lock up where nothing works, things cycle on their own, or incorrect outputs come on when you command something else. On one such case we saw dome lamps flash in time when the turn signals are turned on.
This was all due to faulty CTM.


CTM Reset Procedure Helps?

Disconnecting the battery or the CTM itself will usually bring one back temporarily. With the symptoms you are having and the fact that they go away with a battery disconnect point to a definite CTM failure.
But if same problem again restarts then is faulty CTM.


CTM Location On Dodge Dakota?

Central Timer Module is located in the left kick panel, the panel to the left of the driver's floorboard. Remove the kick panel, unplug the CTM connectors and then remove the bolts that hold it.


PLEASE NOTE: If you have keyless entry the key fobs are programmed to the CTM, so when replacing it you'd lose keyless entry until the fobs are programmed. This will take a couple minutes and needs to be done with a DRBIII scan tool. If you buy the replacement CTM from a dealer you may be able to have them program your fobs for free. If not they shouldn't charge too much, basic dealer charges are  approx $20 for programming fobs.


WHY CTM Programming Required For New Central Timer Module Unit?

These units come pre-programmed with the software.So No need to program the CTM if its new, but there are certain customer features that will need to be enabled as need. For instance, the remotes would need to be trained to the new CTM using only a scan tool, since there is no manual method of doing it.

If your vehicle has a factory alarm system, then that would need to be enabled, or turned on as well in the same manner.

Its suggested to buy new CTM unit instead of used modules, only because you have no idea what you are getting and whether it works correctly or not, so always buy new or re-manufactured when it comes to electronic modules.
As there is warranty for this products and failure rate is near to nil.


HOW TO TEST CTM?

First You will need a test light to test the CTM.

The tests below are to confirm the power and ground voltages for CTM.

These tests will verify that the power and ground supplies to the CTM are good.If they are, then it's highly likely that your looking at a CTM failure.

Once you get to the CTM behind the kick panel you'll see that it has 3 connectors (If there is only 2 then it's a base truck model).

The first one is #1 - it has 26 pins, the diagram attached shows the terminal end.
CTM Dodge Dakota

Hook your test light up between the battery positive and negative posts to make sure that it works, and to see how bright it should be with a good connection.

Testing Power To CTM:

First the power circuits.. I will also mention color codes of wires in pin.
pin 25 (dark blue with a white tracer) and pin 26 (dark blue). The test light should come on when the key is in the run position on both of these circuits.

Now Testing grounds Voltage To the CTM:

You have to connect your test light to battery positive, and make very sure you have the correct wires before testing.
pin 1 (either solid black, or black with a light green stripe) and pin 16 (black with a light green stripe). The test light should illuminate.. if it comes on but very dim (or doesn't come on at all) you have a ground problem.


Check CTM C3 Module Connections:

Next up is C3 it has 12 wires, but it'll be easier.
You just need to check for power on;
pin 1 (red with a tan stripe)
pin 6 (red with a light green stripe)
These will likely be OK as they are the main power supplies that the CTM uses to power up the left and right headlight bulbs.
Dodge Computer Module Tests

This details will help.
Thanks.

ALSO VIEW THIS RELATED:

For Car parts and diagrams:

CAR MANUAL GUIDE
                 
FOR FREE MANUALS AND GUIDES: ---
Car repair guide?


For all types of car repair help:



Car Backfires

For car repair How to guides:


OVERHEATING: Radiator Fan Not Working

Engine Cooling Fan not Working


"Radiator fan"  "Engine Fan"  "COOLING FAN WILL NOT TURN OFF"

LIFT GATE / TAIL GATE ISSUES

TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN


CAR ALARM ISSUES


Car starter removal, Starter motor testing, Starter repairs, Starter solenoid, Starter wiring,


DOOR PANEL REMOVAL, car door panel, door panel components, front door panel, rear door panel,


HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT, HEATER CORE REMOVAL, TROUBLESHOOT HEATER CORE, FLUSH HEATER CORE,

CAR POWER SEAT, ELECTRIC SEAT, POWER SEAT WILL NOT WORK, SEAT WILL NOT GO FORWARD,



For all types of---------

Timing belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?



                          

==========

For all types of --------

Drive belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?




stalling issues:
Engine stalls, car stalls while starting, vehicle stalls while starting, Engine stalls and dies, Car stalls and stops,


CRUISE CONTROL Not working, cruise control replacing, troubleshooting cruise control problems,


TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS:

NO REVERSE ON TRANSMISSION

GEAR SHIFT ISSUES

Transmission fluid leak, transmission gears slip,


TRANSMISSION REPLACING AND TROUBLESHOOTING, INSPECTING TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS, TRANSMISSION FAILURES, OD WARNING LIGHT,


TRANSMISSION FLUID FILLING, WHERE TO FILL TRANSMISSION FLUID, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID, NO TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK,


WINDSHIELD WIPERS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS NOT WORKING,WIPER MOTOR MAKING NOISE,NO WIPERS,WIPER FLUID LEAKS,WIPER FUSE AND RELAY,


COOLANT LEAK ISSUES, COOLANT LEAK PROBLEMS, COOLANT SENSOR, LOW COOLANT,


BRAKE LIGHTS NOT WORKING, REPAIRING BRAKE LIGHTS, NO BRAKE LIGHTS,


CHECK ENGINE LIGHT,ENGINE WARNING LIGHT FLASHING,ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT,ECM ERROR CODES,


DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHTS ARE ON, ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,WARNING LIGHTS STEADY ON DASH,RESET DASH BOARD WARNING INDICATOR,


KEYFOB PROGRAMMING, REPROGRAMMING CAR KEY, KEYLESS ENTRY RESET,ANTITHEFT WILL NOT LET CAR TO START, ANTI THEFT ISSUES, KEYFOB NOT WORKING, KEYLESS ENTRY QUIT WORKING,


IGNITION KEY WILL NOT RELEASE, IGNITION KEY STUCK UP, KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION, FAULTY IGNITION KEY LOCK CYLINDER, REPLACING IGNITION CYLINDER,


HEATER ISSUES:

HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



STEERING ISSUES:

POWER STEERING TROUBLESHOOTING, STEERING SQUEAKS, POWER STEERING FLUID LEAKS, FAULTY POWER STEERING PUMP, POWER STEERING NOT WORKING, POWER STEERING BELT,



VEHICLE STARTING ISSUE:

CAR NO START: ENGINE NOT TURNING OVER:


Saturday, March 3, 2012

Dodge Dakota stalls,stumbles at idle.has low fuel flow and runs hot?

Multiple problem with dodge Dakota vehicle.

This all problem started after engine rebuild.

First it was just stalling and stumbles off at idle.The engine fault was detected.Due to this engine rebuild was done by local car mechanic.
After engine rebuild all problems started and increased.
the fuel flow got less,car started running hot and stalling and stumbling also got increased.

As per this details the troubleshooting is as follows :-----


The fact that the fuel pressure goes up 2-3 lbs, can mean something, but it's to little of an increase to condemn a component. I'll need you to do a flow test. Pull the line from the throtle body. Unplug the electrical connector for the ignition coil, so we won't have spark. Attach a fuel hose onto the end of the line, and place the hose in a suitable container. Have an assisstant crank the engine, see how much fuel you get in 15 sec. A premeasured container always works best, empty quart of oil container (although technically it is not an approved caontainer). Do the test with the engine warm. If the flow looks obviously low, pull the fuel filter out, drain the fuel from it, and blow thru it in the direction of flow. You should be able to blow thru it easily, if not it may be partially plugged. If the filter is good, and we still have low flow, the screen on the bottom of the fuel pump may be plugged or the pump is failing. This can show good on a pressure test.

Also, when the stumbling occurs, have the aircleaner removed and spray a couple squirts of carburator cleaner into the throttle body, see if the idle wants to smooth out.


One more thing causing the problem is faulty throttle position sensor.  Test throttle sensor voltage by using a volt meter.

The throttle position sensor is a potentiometer that has three wires.
One wire is the ground that goes back to the engine controller.  Another is the 5 volt reference from the engine controller.  The last one is the signal return that the engine computer uses to determine the throttle position.  Usually the voltage will range from .5 to 4.5 V depending on the actual position of the throttle plate.  If you have less that .5 volts, the engine controller will assume the circuit is shorted to ground or open.  If it is more than 4.5 V, the engine controller will assume the circuit is shorted to power.  


The BLK/LT BLUE is the 5 V reference from the ECU, the V/O is the ground, and the OR/DK BLUE is the signal going back to the ECU.
See the diagram shown below :----


Also, when it is running and warm check for vacumme leaks around the intake manifold. You can liberaly spary carb cleaner around the intake and look for an increase in idle. It may be that when the engine is warm, warped surfaces of the intake or head are opening up, creating a vacumme leak.

Now, about the running hot issue. If you put a larger cam in, along with the other upgrades the engine could be creating slightly more friction and running warmer. This is typical of building engines and an auxilary cooling fan is needed to keep the temperture down in those conditions (traffic, high ambient temperature, going up a hill, etc). To test this and the stumbling condition we can do to things. Remove the t-stat completely and see how cool the engine runs, also see if the stumbling will subside. Do you have a large industrial fan, or access to one? If so, you can put a fan in front of it and idle, look for decrease in temp, and stumbling. I'd like to know how much less the stumbling occurs with the temperature drop.

Lastly, i'm concerned that the running hot is affecting the ckp, or reluctor wheel on the flywheel. It may be reaching the perfect temp to change the shape and cause an issue. The only way to tell would be to scope the ckp signal during the problem, and scope it when cold to see the difference in waveform.

Also, I believe a scope of the ignition system may be in order. Not to identify an ignition failure, but an ignition oscilliscope can reveal a fuel problem, an internal engine fault, or ignition fault. This is thru the kv (kilivolts) the ignition spark produces in each cylinder. The spark can be viewed, and a balnce of all cylinders can be determined as well. I didn't want to recomend this, because I was hoping we wold run accross something simple, but this test may tell us what we need to know. Another issue is, most (75%) of mechanics out there, do not know how to use a ignition scope. Most shops don't carry one, and if they do it's full of dust. You'll need to research shops in your area, and talk to the technicians, see if they understant how to evaluate vehicles with ignition scope readings. A good tech will take one look at the secondary cylinders signals and can tell you what the cylinder fuel mixture is like during combustion. If the ckp is causing a fault, the primary signal will be affected. If the computer's not controling the fuel injection, or the ignition coil, the scope can reveal this too. It basically will narrow down the problem to either fuel, compression/efficiency, or computer controls, or vacumme leak/ignition system or controls. With that information, we can take the tests that we've already done and see what to conclude.


This details will help.
Thanks.

See below latest solved car problems :----


Vehicle stumbling at idle and shows code 54?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/03/vehicle-stumbling-at-idle-and-shows.html


How to replace Drive Shaft bearing on Toyota pick up?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/02/how-to-replace-drive-shaft-bearing-on.html

Car suddenly died and won’t start?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/car-suddenly-died-and-wont-start.html

Car is starting but not turning over?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/car-is-starting-but-not-turning-over.html

Engine cranks but will not start?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/engine-cranks-but-will-not-start.html

Exclamation indicator light on ford freestar dash?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/exclamation-indicator-light-on-ford.html

2004 ford freestar van idles rough?

How to remove Intake Manifold Tuning Valve?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-remove-intake-manifold-tuning.html

Trunk release Problem on Toyota Camry?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/02/trunk-release-problem-on-toyota-camry.html

CMFI details for GMC vehicles?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/cmfi-details-for-gmc-vehicles.html

Mazda MPV cranks but will not start?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/mazda-mpv-cranks-but-will-not-start.html

MAZDA MPV WILL CRANK BUT NOT TURN OVER TO START?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/mazda-mpv-will-crank-but-not-turn-over.html

Freightliner fl112 fuse box diagram?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/freightliner-fl112-fuse-box-diagram.html

Car will not turn the ignition to start?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/car-will-not-turn-ignition-to-start.html