Oil light came on and the car died?

It has multiple possibilities,that can cause this.


you may deal with a faulty fuel pump that does not supply enough fuel.
If you get spark but the engine does not start, then you should check for fuel pressure with a gauge. You should get something about 40-47PSI with the Key On and Engine Off. If it is not, your fuel pump has to be replaced ( wires to fuel pump should also be checked to make sure it gets power and ground).
If it supplies some fuel to the engine and the pressure is low ( 10-20PSI), the engine may work but it will have rough idle, hesitate and no power symptoms.


You should not replace the fuel pump till you are sure it is faulty.
You should check the fuel pressure and that will tell you if it indeed has to be replaced.
It is not a cheap one to throw parts in by guesswork.
First of all make sure you have a strong spark from the spark plug cable ( use an old spark plug connected to ground). If there is spark, then try to start the car by spraying some Carb cleaner or start fluid into the air intake. If it starts with a spray, you have a problem with the fuel supply.

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SO when you try to start it it chugs and dies ...........

If you ever see the Red oil light come on it means "turn the engine off as quickly and safely as possible". You ran the engine too long with little to no oil pressure. Your engine is now shot. The reason it will not turn over is it's locked up.

Does it sound like the starter clicking or is it in the engine? If yes,then try hitting the starter with hammer and see,if that makes any difference.

but if the starter is bad it wouldnt have caused the car to die. Since your oil light came on and then it died it sounds like the engine locked up. If it is locked up the starter could be clicking because it doesnt have enough power to turn the engine over. I would drain the oil to see if it is sludged up and see how it looks. I cant find any info on the location of the starter but if you follow the positive battery cable it should lead you to it. You could try hit it to see if it will start but if not just be sure before you suspect the engine take it off and take it to the autoparts store and have it tested.

Before you condemn the engine find the crank pulley where the belt is, it will be the bigger pulley on the center on the bottom and find a socket and ratchet to fit it and try to turn it over by hand to see if it will turn. If not then it is definitely locked up. If it turns it is likely the starter if all of your connections are good. Once it is locked up it is pretty much done. This will happen due to lack of oil pressure if there is not oil getting to the bearing it will seize and ruin the engine.

This will help.

Thanks.

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Toyota Camry Check engine light flashes while driving?

In this case,the check engine light was steady ON dash.The car was running fine but slow,not fast then 60KM per hour.When the customer was trying to accelerate the car for high speed the check engine light starts flashing.And Toyota starts jerking back-forth.But if its below 60KM per hour then it will drive fine with steady check engine light ON dash.

On this basis the troubleshooting is as follows :----
When the check engine light illuminates there is a malfunction in one of the engine control systems. When it's starts to flash most of the time this means there is cylinder misfire. Cylinder misfire can cause catalytic converter damage if driven for long periods of time like this. If this is a V-6 more than likely you're going to find that possibly one or more ignition coils has failed. If you can get a scan tool/code reader and find out what the code numbers are that can help narrow down what the potential problems are.Because the diagnostic code will point out what part is faulty.So as per that you can start troubleshooting.

This will help.
Thanks.

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GMC Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Replacing?

Coolant Temperature Sensor monitors the temperature of the engine and sends that information to the engine control computer to regulate the amount of fuel needed. More fuel is needed if the engine is cold; less if it's hot. If the temperature is extreme, the signal will be sent to the temperature gauge as a visual indicator of overheating and imminent danger.

The sensor replacing details is as follows :---

OPERATION

The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is mounted in the intake manifold and sends engine temperature information to the VCM. The VCM supplies 5 volts to the coolant temperature sensor circuit. The sensor is a thermistor which changes internal resistance as temperature changes. When the sensor is cold (internal resistance high), the VCM monitors a high signal voltage which it interprets as a cold engine. As the sensor warms (internal resistance low), the VCM monitors a low signal voltage which it interprets as warm engine.

TESTING

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Remove the ECT sensor from the vehicle.
2. Immerse the tip of the sensor in container of water.
3. Connect a digital ohmmeter to the two terminals of the sensor.
4. Using a calibrated thermometer, compare the resistance of the sensor to the temperature of the water. Refer to the engine coolant sensor temperature vs. resistance illustration.
5. Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the water as necessary.
6. If the sensor does not met specification shown in the temperature versus resistance chart, it must be replaced.
7. The sensor may also be checked in the vehicle. Unplug the sensor and attach a digital ohmmeter to the two terminals of the sensor.
8. Using a calibrated thermometer, compare the resistance of the sensor to the ambient air temperature.
9. Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the water as necessary.
10. If the sensor does not met specification shown in the temperature versus resistance chart, it must be replaced.

Fig. Fig. 1: Testing the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor resistance

Fig. Fig. 2: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor wiring diagram (wire color, terminal identification/location may vary on certain models)

Fig. Fig. 3: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor temperature vs. resistance values

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 4 through 9

Fig. Fig. 4: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor location-1994-95 4.3L TBI engines

Fig. Fig. 5: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor location-1994-95 4.3L CMFI engines

Fig. Fig. 6: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor location-1996- 1997 4.3L engines

Fig. Fig. 7: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor location-1994-97 2.2L engines

Fig. Fig. 8: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor location-1998-99 2.2L engines

Fig. Fig. 9: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor location-1998-99 4.3L engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system below the level of the sensor and unplug the sensor electrical connection.
3. Remove the coolant sensor.

To install:

4. On 1998-99 models, coat the threads of the sensor with a suitable water resistant sealer such a sealer 9985253 or its equivalent.
5. Install the sensor and engage the electrical connector.
6. Refill the cooling system and connect the negative battery cable.

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This details will help you.Thanks.

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