Backing up personal data and stuff that you have on your Laptop or Dekstop.
I know it gets really annoying to turn your computer ON then you find out that Windows does not boot up or load on you system, sometimes you will encounter issue that your password that you have always used does not work or may get an error that the user profile cannot be loaded.
Backing up your data would be the nicest thing that you will be doing at least once every 2 weeks to be on the safe side, I have done this eversince I encountered one of the issues that I mentioned earlier.
Backing up you personal data on a DVD' disc/CD's or Flash drive can be a life saver, but if you have the option on getting an external Hard drive of at leat 320GB to 500gb or maybe 1TB will be much better, since DVD's/CD's and Flash drives can also fail to work at times.
Having your data safe on a separate Hard Drive makes you feel at ease even if you encounter a problem, restoring Windows back to factory defaults will not be a big deal anymore knowing that you can retrieve any personal data that you may need from a storage device or an externa Hard Drive.
Also backing up you data just doesn't give you the option on having a back up copy of any data that you have but it as well give you tha option to get more free space on your computers internal Hard Drive and making you computer storage flexible at all times.
Backing up your data can also avoid your internal Hard drive from experiencing failures and error's this will be avoiding congestion of data from within windows.
The last thing that you need to worry about if ever you may encounter reinstalling windows is to reinstall the programs that you have installed on your computer.
@
Saturday, July 2, 2011
How to Unclog heater core?
When dealing with a clogged heater core causing poor or no heat situation, I've had good success doing it myself, for about $25-$30 . First thing to look at is if you can get to your heater hoses, as some may be a nightmare, others are easily accessible, but the closer you can get to the heater core, where the hoses go into the firewall, the better. Many will allow you to remove the heater hoses right at the firewall which is ideal.
With engine cool, I simply remove the heater hoses (after draining down the system and making sure I don't spill antifreeze on the ground where animals can get to it, which if ingested could more than likely kill them), and attach a drill pump, and hose to one of the heater core tubes, then get an extra piece of garden hose, and attach it to the other core tube, and cut it long enough to run it back into a pail, as a return line, to recover the cleaning solution. The hose on the suction side of the drill pump also goes in to the pail. Then add 1 or 2 jugs of CLR, (calcium, lime, rust remover) available at most hardware stores, into the pail as my cleaning solution. With pressure side hose from pump attached to heater core tube, and other hose(suction) from pump inside pail to draw liquid, as well as return hose from core in pail, start up the drill pump, which can be driven with electric, or cordless drill. I circulate it through for a while, then stop and let it sit in the core to work at the calcium etc inside the core for a few minutes, longer the better. After running it through a few times that way, I reverse the hoses at the core, and run it through again, like a reverse flush, and repeat as above, letting it sit in there for a while from time to time. I will normally do this when it isn't urgent that the vehicle be used soon, and if at all possible, I will let the CLR sit in the core overnight just to give it that extra time to break things down inside that core. Then next morning, I will run it through again, and reverse hoses again, run it some more, then I'm done. Remove all hoses, re-attach heater hoses to core, and start vehicle, re-fill cooling system, with heater turned on to remove air in system, and your done. I found this quite effective as well on vehicles that tend to blow cooler air when idling, but get warmer when RPM's are increased, just due to less restriction now in heater core, allowing coolant to flow through better at idle as well as higher RPM's. I've saved $100's if not $1000's of dollars this way, not to mention a lot of aggravation trying to change the heater core. Even if it doesn't get you back to the heat you were getting when vehicle was new, if money is tight, or your just trying to make the vehicle last a little longer before your ready to replace it, this will probably get you the heat you need to get you through until it's warmer outside. If you can't get to the hoses at the firewall location, try following them back toward engine to a location that may be easier to work from. There you would want to buy a couple of "Barbed" fittings (Joiners) the proper size to enable you to cut heater hoses, attach hoses from pump, then re-attach heater hoses together when done. Be sure to get good quality fittings, and re-check for leaks after/occasionally, to be sure. Be sure to check also, that there isn't some type of valve restriction or whatever in the hose between where your planning on cutting hose and the heater core where it's attached, that will not allow flow through, as well as out on return hose. Be sure to store or dispose of cleaning solution (CLR) in a safe place. It does have other cleaning abilities, as labeled on the jug, and a simple coffee filter in a funnel, to filter out the debris from core and poured back into jugs will allow you to re-use it elsewhere, but if you do, please remember it has been contaminated with antifreeze, and if re-used for cleaning or whatever, make sure it's not an application where it may be ingested by animals, or humans. Best bet for safety sake, is to dispose of it properly to avoid that risk.
The car will not start?
Car will not crank?
Car has no spark?
How to troubleshoot car battery?
How to test starter solenoid?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-starter-solenoid.html
--------------------
How to test cars starter?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-cars-starter.html
How to replace starter in car?
car will turn over but will not start?
The Brake Indicator Light Stays On dash of car?
The ABS and Traction Control Lights stays ON dash of car?
Check Engine Light On car?
How to replace Interior Lights on car?
Car lights not working, even after replacing the bulb/lamp?
How to replace head lights on car?
How to replace Parking, turn, and Brake Lights on car?
How to replace power window motor in car?
How to test relays on car?
How to troubleshoot Engine Misfires?
The spark plug firing order for car?
Where is the Thermostat located in car?
How to recharge AC on Auto/Truck/car?
With engine cool, I simply remove the heater hoses (after draining down the system and making sure I don't spill antifreeze on the ground where animals can get to it, which if ingested could more than likely kill them), and attach a drill pump, and hose to one of the heater core tubes, then get an extra piece of garden hose, and attach it to the other core tube, and cut it long enough to run it back into a pail, as a return line, to recover the cleaning solution. The hose on the suction side of the drill pump also goes in to the pail. Then add 1 or 2 jugs of CLR, (calcium, lime, rust remover) available at most hardware stores, into the pail as my cleaning solution. With pressure side hose from pump attached to heater core tube, and other hose(suction) from pump inside pail to draw liquid, as well as return hose from core in pail, start up the drill pump, which can be driven with electric, or cordless drill. I circulate it through for a while, then stop and let it sit in the core to work at the calcium etc inside the core for a few minutes, longer the better. After running it through a few times that way, I reverse the hoses at the core, and run it through again, like a reverse flush, and repeat as above, letting it sit in there for a while from time to time. I will normally do this when it isn't urgent that the vehicle be used soon, and if at all possible, I will let the CLR sit in the core overnight just to give it that extra time to break things down inside that core. Then next morning, I will run it through again, and reverse hoses again, run it some more, then I'm done. Remove all hoses, re-attach heater hoses to core, and start vehicle, re-fill cooling system, with heater turned on to remove air in system, and your done. I found this quite effective as well on vehicles that tend to blow cooler air when idling, but get warmer when RPM's are increased, just due to less restriction now in heater core, allowing coolant to flow through better at idle as well as higher RPM's. I've saved $100's if not $1000's of dollars this way, not to mention a lot of aggravation trying to change the heater core. Even if it doesn't get you back to the heat you were getting when vehicle was new, if money is tight, or your just trying to make the vehicle last a little longer before your ready to replace it, this will probably get you the heat you need to get you through until it's warmer outside. If you can't get to the hoses at the firewall location, try following them back toward engine to a location that may be easier to work from. There you would want to buy a couple of "Barbed" fittings (Joiners) the proper size to enable you to cut heater hoses, attach hoses from pump, then re-attach heater hoses together when done. Be sure to get good quality fittings, and re-check for leaks after/occasionally, to be sure. Be sure to check also, that there isn't some type of valve restriction or whatever in the hose between where your planning on cutting hose and the heater core where it's attached, that will not allow flow through, as well as out on return hose. Be sure to store or dispose of cleaning solution (CLR) in a safe place. It does have other cleaning abilities, as labeled on the jug, and a simple coffee filter in a funnel, to filter out the debris from core and poured back into jugs will allow you to re-use it elsewhere, but if you do, please remember it has been contaminated with antifreeze, and if re-used for cleaning or whatever, make sure it's not an application where it may be ingested by animals, or humans. Best bet for safety sake, is to dispose of it properly to avoid that risk.
----------------
For more troubleshooting:---
The car will not start?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/car-will-not-start.html
-----------------
Car will not crank?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/car-will-not-crank.html
-----------
Car has no spark?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/car-has-no-spark.html
-------------
How to troubleshoot car battery?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-troubleshoot-car-battery.html
-----------------
How to test starter solenoid?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-starter-solenoid.html
--------------------
How to test cars starter?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-cars-starter.html
How to replace starter in car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-replace-starter-in-car.html
-----------
car will turn over but will not start?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/car-will-turn-over-but-will-not-start.html
-----------------
The Brake Indicator Light Stays On dash of car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/brake-indicator-light-stays-on-dash-of.html
The ABS and Traction Control Lights stays ON dash of car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/abs-and-traction-control-lights-stays.html
Check Engine Light On car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/check-engine-light-on-car.html
-------------------------
How to replace Interior Lights on car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-replace-interior-lights-on-car.html
Car lights not working, even after replacing the bulb/lamp?
Click this link below:--
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/car-lights-not-working-even-after.html
---------------
How to replace head lights on car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-replace-head-lights-on-car.html
--------------------
How to replace Parking, turn, and Brake Lights on car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-replace-parking-turn-and-brake.html
How to remove the door panel on car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-remove-door-panel-on-car.html
How to replace power window motor in car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-replace-power-window-motor-in.html
How to test relays on car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-relays-on-car.html
-----------------------------
How to troubleshoot Engine Misfires?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-troubleshoot-engine-misfires.html
------------
The spark plug firing order for car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/spark-plug-firing-order-for-car.html
------------------------
Where is the Thermostat located in car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/where-is-thermostat-located-in-car.html
How to recharge AC on Auto/Truck/car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-recharge-ac-on-autotruckcar.html
-------------------
How to trouble shoot speedometer?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/speedometer-not-working.html
To Order car parts online:--To get heavy discount on car parts .Click this link below:----
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/from-where-to-order-car-parts-online.html
For car error code diagnosis click the link below:---
How to remove Chuck from cordless driver drills?
For chuck removal first remove the chuck retaining screw which is LH thread. If this tool has a high/low selector shift to LOW and if equipped with a clutch shift to the drill only position. Find a bent handle allen wrench about the size of chuck capacity (the larger the better, less flexing) and insert the short portion into the jaws and tighten. Position the chuck on a workbench or block of wood with the longer portion at about a 30 degree angle so you can strike it counter clockwise with a hammer, strike the longer portion and the chuck should loosen (it is standard thread pattern) It might take a couple hits to remove. Chuck installation would be to reverse the above to seat the chuck and reinstall the screw.
CONTROL LOCKED on Whirlpool/Kenmore Washers/Dryers
The Whirlpool duet washer needs a reset to resolve the control lock problem. Press and hold the END OF CYCLE/CYCLE SIGNAL button for 15 seconds to reset the control. This button is usually located on the right side of the panel facing the front of the washer.
Similarly, if it is a Kenmore Washer you can press and hold the DRAIN/SPIN button for 15 seconds.
In a Kenmore Dryer you can use the AUTO DRY LEVEL button (press and hold it for 15 seconds to unlock the control).
Similarly, if it is a Kenmore Washer you can press and hold the DRAIN/SPIN button for 15 seconds.
In a Kenmore Dryer you can use the AUTO DRY LEVEL button (press and hold it for 15 seconds to unlock the control).
computer very slow?
Many complaints I receive from clients have to do with slow performance from their computer. There are several reasons why this happens.
As updates and enhancements are added to Windows, it takes more memory to run the system. In addition, many new programs with lots of capability use more memory than their predecessors. Windows Vista is quite a system hog and needs at least 2 GB RAM to run (even though Microsoft might say differently). You should have at least 1GB to run Windows XP and 2 GB for Windows 7. I personally recommend 3GB for all 3 systems.
Assuming you have no malware running that is affecting performance, the next thing to check is what programs run at startup. From the command line, type MSCONFIG. The command line is accessed in XP by clicking START>RUN. In Vista and 7, the command line is just above the START button.
After opening the window, click on the STARTUP tab. Check out all the things that are running at startup. Do you need them? Probably not. You really need the antivirus programs running and that's about it. I suggest unchecking the items you don't recognize. Then restart your computer and see if all the things you need still run. If not, you can go back into MSCONFIG and recheck the things you need. You are not uninstalling programs by unchecking them--just telling them not to start.
The third thing you can do is go to the My Computer or Computer menu item and right click on the hard drive. Go to TOOLS and check your disk for errors. Next, run DEFRAG. Not only will this result in an increase in speed, it wil keep your file system healthy.
As updates and enhancements are added to Windows, it takes more memory to run the system. In addition, many new programs with lots of capability use more memory than their predecessors. Windows Vista is quite a system hog and needs at least 2 GB RAM to run (even though Microsoft might say differently). You should have at least 1GB to run Windows XP and 2 GB for Windows 7. I personally recommend 3GB for all 3 systems.
Assuming you have no malware running that is affecting performance, the next thing to check is what programs run at startup. From the command line, type MSCONFIG. The command line is accessed in XP by clicking START>RUN. In Vista and 7, the command line is just above the START button.
After opening the window, click on the STARTUP tab. Check out all the things that are running at startup. Do you need them? Probably not. You really need the antivirus programs running and that's about it. I suggest unchecking the items you don't recognize. Then restart your computer and see if all the things you need still run. If not, you can go back into MSCONFIG and recheck the things you need. You are not uninstalling programs by unchecking them--just telling them not to start.
The third thing you can do is go to the My Computer or Computer menu item and right click on the hard drive. Go to TOOLS and check your disk for errors. Next, run DEFRAG. Not only will this result in an increase in speed, it wil keep your file system healthy.
Windows error?
"file c:\windows\system32\config\system missing"
Once you get to the command prompt (C:\>), type CHKDSK. Ttype CHKDSK /R. This will scan your file system for errors and just may fix the problem. Once it is finished, reboot the computer and see if the problem persists. Many times, you will succeed.
If this doesn't work, you may have to reboot from the startup disk and do a Windows repair or reinstall (the choices depend on what system disk your computer manufacturer has provided). The prompt for the Windows repair will come after you answer the question asking if you wish to use the recovery console and you choose not to do that. You will have to press F8 to accept the terms and conditions and then you should be asked if you want to repair a Windows installation. Choose that option and you can do a repair. Once you choose this option, you must select the copy of Windows to repair (normally choice #1). It will ask you for the administrator password. If there is no password, just hit RETURN. If there is a password, enter it. If you don?t know it, proceed to the next step, below.
It?s possible at this point that your computer manufacturer?s disk will not allow this option. It may want you to only install a new copy of Windows. This is OK to do, and if you choose it, be sure to tell the computer to install it by leaving the file system unchanged. What will happen is that you?ll have a new Windows installation, your data will be intact, but you will have to reload your programs.
Windows XP won't start?
Symptoms: When you start your computer, you get the black screen with a menu that tells you to start in safe mode, normal mode, etc. When you make a choice, you end up in the same place.
Solution: If you have Windows XP, you'll need an installation disk. Doesn't matter if it's yours or not. You just need a Windows XP disk. Any flavor. Put it in the CD drive and start your computer. Be sure the computer boots from the CD.
You will see the Windows installation message and the first question you will be asked is if you wish to repair Windows or install it. Choose "r" for repair. You will now be presented with a black screen that asks you which version of Windows do you wish to repair. Choose the one that is probably the first on the list--it should just say Windows. It may appear like this: C:\Windows.
You may get a second screen asking for the password. This is the password for the Administrator account. If there is not a password on this account, just hit "enter."
When you get to the C:\> prompt, type CHKDSK /P and let it run. It will most likely find errors and fix them. Once it's finished, Windows should start normally.
Solution: Once again, boot to a Windows installation CD. This time, though, you will need a CD that has the same version of Windows that you are running (for instance, XP Home, XP Pro). When you get to the first question asking if you would like to repair Windows or install it, choose the "install" option.
You will be asked to press the F8 key to accept the terms and conditions. Do that.
The next screen "should" ask you if you wish to repair an existing installation or install a new one. Choose the "repair" option and follow the prompts. It will probably ask you to choose the installation to repair, so do that. There should only be one instance of "Windows" to repair. Now you'll see it deleting files and installing new ones. The nice thing about this option is you won't be losing data. If all goes well, your computer will work just like before with all your programs and data intact.
One thing you will need, though, is the Windows Certificate of Authenticity--that is the five groups of 5 letters and numbers that should be stuck on the outside of your computer case.
If this doesn't work, you will probably have to do a full reinstalllation of Windows or repair the registry
Solution: If you have Windows XP, you'll need an installation disk. Doesn't matter if it's yours or not. You just need a Windows XP disk. Any flavor. Put it in the CD drive and start your computer. Be sure the computer boots from the CD.
You will see the Windows installation message and the first question you will be asked is if you wish to repair Windows or install it. Choose "r" for repair. You will now be presented with a black screen that asks you which version of Windows do you wish to repair. Choose the one that is probably the first on the list--it should just say Windows. It may appear like this: C:\Windows.
You may get a second screen asking for the password. This is the password for the Administrator account. If there is not a password on this account, just hit "enter."
When you get to the C:\> prompt, type CHKDSK /P and let it run. It will most likely find errors and fix them. Once it's finished, Windows should start normally.
--------------
Symptom: You've tried the primary fix (the easy one) and you aren't successful. You keep ending up on the menu screen and nothing works.Solution: Once again, boot to a Windows installation CD. This time, though, you will need a CD that has the same version of Windows that you are running (for instance, XP Home, XP Pro). When you get to the first question asking if you would like to repair Windows or install it, choose the "install" option.
You will be asked to press the F8 key to accept the terms and conditions. Do that.
The next screen "should" ask you if you wish to repair an existing installation or install a new one. Choose the "repair" option and follow the prompts. It will probably ask you to choose the installation to repair, so do that. There should only be one instance of "Windows" to repair. Now you'll see it deleting files and installing new ones. The nice thing about this option is you won't be losing data. If all goes well, your computer will work just like before with all your programs and data intact.
One thing you will need, though, is the Windows Certificate of Authenticity--that is the five groups of 5 letters and numbers that should be stuck on the outside of your computer case.
If this doesn't work, you will probably have to do a full reinstalllation of Windows or repair the registry
-------------
So--you've tried everything else and you still can't get XP up and running? Time to do a system reinstall.
If you have a recovery disk (or set) provided by the manufacturer or if you remembered to make one when you got the computer, put the first disk in the CD/DVD drive, boot from it, and then follow the prompts. The program will most likely format the hard drive and restore your computer to its original (factory) condition. Bad for you if you have not backed up your data.
When I have the opportunity, I would much rather use a Windows disk (same flavor of Windows on your machine) to install a fresh copy of the operating system. You would boot from this disk in the same manner as I described in the first two tips. This time, though, you will not choose "repair" but will proceed with the installation of a fresh copy of Windows. When prompted, I would recommend leaving the file system intact (that is, not reformat the hard drive) if you have data that you really don't want to lose. In the end, you will have two installations of Windows that you will be able to see in Windows Explorer, but only one will be functional. Your data will usually be intact. You will have to reinstall all your programs, though. All the files will be there, but no programs will work until you reinstall them.
If you have a recovery disk (or set) provided by the manufacturer or if you remembered to make one when you got the computer, put the first disk in the CD/DVD drive, boot from it, and then follow the prompts. The program will most likely format the hard drive and restore your computer to its original (factory) condition. Bad for you if you have not backed up your data.
When I have the opportunity, I would much rather use a Windows disk (same flavor of Windows on your machine) to install a fresh copy of the operating system. You would boot from this disk in the same manner as I described in the first two tips. This time, though, you will not choose "repair" but will proceed with the installation of a fresh copy of Windows. When prompted, I would recommend leaving the file system intact (that is, not reformat the hard drive) if you have data that you really don't want to lose. In the end, you will have two installations of Windows that you will be able to see in Windows Explorer, but only one will be functional. Your data will usually be intact. You will have to reinstall all your programs, though. All the files will be there, but no programs will work until you reinstall them.
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