How to replace Timing chain on 1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass?

The procedure to replace timing chain

The details and diagrams are as follows:---

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7

V8 Chevrolet Built Engines

All Chevrolet V8 engines are equipped with a timing chain.

1. Remove the crankcase front cover. This will allow access to the timing chain.
2. Crank the engine until the marks punched on both sprockets are closest to one another and in line between the shaft centers.
3. Take out the three bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft. This sprocket is a light press fit on the camshaft and will come off readily. It is located by a dowel. The chain comes off with the camshaft sprocket.
4. A gear puller will be required to remove the crankshaft sprocket.

To install:

5. Without disturbing the position of the engine, mount the new crank sprocket on the shaft, then mount the chain over the camshaft sprocket.
6. Arrange the camshaft sprocket in such a way that the timing marks will line up between the shaft centers; and the camshaft locating dowel will enter the dowel hole in the cam sprocket.
7. Place the cam sprocket, with the chain mounted over it, in position on the front of the camshaft and pull up with the three bolts that hold it to the camshaft.
8. After the sprockets are in place, turn the engine two full revolutions to make certain that the timing marks are in correct alignment between the shaft centers.
9. Install the crankcase front cover.

V8 Oldsmobile Built Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the timing case cover and take off the camshaft gear.

The fuel pump operating cam is bolted to the front of the camshaft sprocket and the sprocket is located on the camshaft by means of a dowel.

2. Align the timing marks on the sprockets.
3. Remove the oil slinger, timing chain, and the camshaft sprocket. If the crankshaft sprocket is to be replaced, remove it also at this time. Remove the crankshaft key before using the puller. If the key can not be removed, align the puller so it does not overlap the end of the key, as the key-way is only machined part of the way into the crankshaft gear.

Fig. Fig. 1: Before removing the timing chain, make sure the valve timing marks are properly aligned

Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and fuel eccentric

Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the camshaft sprocket

Fig. Fig. 4: Use a puller to loosen the crankshaft sprocket

Fig. Fig. 5: Before completely removing the crankshaft sprocket, remove the crankshaft key

To install:

4. Reinstall the crankshaft sprocket being careful to start it with the keyway in perfect alignment since it is rather difficult to correct for misalignment after the gear has been started on the shaft. Turn the timing mark on the crankshaft gear until it points directly toward the center of the camshaft. Mount the timing chain over the camshaft gear and start the camshaft gear up on to its shaft with the timing marks as close as possible to each other and in line between the shaft centers. Rotate the camshaft to align the shaft with the new gear.
5. Install the fuel pump eccentric with the flat side toward the rear.
6. Drive the key in with a hammer until it bottoms.
7. Install the oil slinger.

263 Oldsmobile Built Diesel Engines

Any time the timing chain and gears are replaced on the diesel engine it will be necessary to re-time the engine. Refer to the paragraph on Diesel Engine Injection Timing.

Fig. Fig. 6: Engine front cover and timing chain assembly - 350 Oldsmobile diesel engines

Fig. Fig. 7: Timing mark alignment - Oldsmobile built engines

1. Remove the front cover. Remove the valve covers.
2. Loosen all rocker arm pivot bolts evenly so that lash exists between the rocker arms and valves. It is not necessary to completely remove the rocker arms unless related service is being performed.
3. Remove the crankshaft oil slinger and the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer.
4. Remove the timing chain, camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. If the crankshaft sprocket is a tight fit on the crankshaft use an appropriate puller to remove it.

To install:

5. If the camshaft sprocket-to-cam key comes out with the camshaft sprocket, remove the front camshaft bearing retainer and install the key into the injection pump drive gear. Install the bearing retainer.
6. Install the key in the crankshaft, if removed.
7. Install the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and the timing chain together, align the timing marks on the camshaft and the crankshaft. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 64 ft. lbs. (86 Nm)
8. Install the oil slinger and the remaining parts of the front cover assembly.
9. After installing the front cover, bleed down the valve lifters as instructed in Diesel Engine, Rocker Arm Replacement, above.
10. Remaining installation is the reverse of removal. Sealant is used in place of valve cover gaskets.

These details will help.
Thanks.

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This details will help.
Thanks.

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Ford Odometer Dims intermittently

Odometer displays gets dim and dark on 2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac.

The problem is not constant,it occurs occasionally then all gets normal.

IS IT A FUSE OR BULB ISSUE?


NO,not at all.I've repaired multiple sets of these, a fuse WOULD NOT cause the intermittent issues you are experiencing, and the bulb is extremely unlikely to do so.

OK,THEN WHAT CAN CAUSE THIS PROBLEM?


Its a problem with Instrument cluster board.

The "proper" repair is to have the entire instrument cluster (the unit that holds all of the gauges and odometer behind the steering wheel) replaced. The reason this particular issue happens is usually due to a faulty solder joint on the instrument cluster.

IS REPLACING THE CLUSTER BOARD ONLY OPTION OR CAN I REPAIR THE PROBLEM?

If you go to ford dealership then for quick and easy solution.They will suggest you just get instrument cluster board replaced.
But as per my experience at our auto garage.I will say,these is jut the basic start of problem.
The problem can be repaired.

If you know how to use soldering iron and solder electric points on circuit board.Then you can repair this problem easily.

See the instrument cluster board image shown below:---
The solder points which mostly go loose are shown.





Only the odometer is affected by these solder joints
The eight solder connections in the top left of this picture are the ones that are most likely at fault, if you are comfortable with a solder gun and removing the instrument cluster, these are the solder joints that need to be repaired mostly.But if you notice any other additional solder points that seems loose then don't ignore that points. Re-solder that points too.

WHY ONLY ODOMETER IS AFFECTED AND ALL OTHER WORKS GOOD ON CLUTER BOARD?



The part of the board that has the bad solder connections gets hot and causes excessive resistance in the circuit for the L.E.D display to function constantly.The root cause of this problem is  "poor solder connections" during assembly.And its not uncommon.The solder points gets loose by age and needs re-soldering.
As per the present condition,the problem is not so worse that you need to replace the cluster board.You can get it repaired by re-soldering.


If you go to a Ford dealer, they will want you to replace the entire instrument cluster.They will not do these repair work for you.


These details will help.
Thanks.

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Volvo Seat Removal with Heated Seats?

Removing passenger seat with heated seat on 2002 Volvo S80.

Its not a easy task,on some cases it can be dangerous due to Airbag.


The front seat removal  is technically a dangerous operation due to the vehicles SRS system.
For these procedure the vehicles battery should be disconnected.Then let the vehicle sit for a long while to discharge any remaining power in the system before removal of the front seat to prevent accidental airbag deployment. The seat should also be grounded to the frame of the vehicle during the removal process.

Now the seat removal procedure.

The seat is held by 4 bolts.Very easy to remove if bolts are not rusted or got worn out.In that cases a rust remover spary like wd-40 or other rust resistant spray needs to be used.So remove the four bolts holding the seat to the floor.

The next step is to remove seat belt.So detaching the seat belt from the seat to allow removal of the seat belt.

The large trim panel blocking the seat belt needs to be removed to be able to remove the seat belt
See the diagram shown below:---


For easy access the catches for the handle above need to be released with a small screw driver, then the handle can be pulled off "upwards".


And remove the large trim panel.Once that is done.Then pull the front edge of the panel upwards first, and then the entire panel toward the rear of the car to remove it
See the help diagram shown below:---


Once this step is done,now you get complete access .This will expose the seat belt bracket itself for removal

See the help diagram shown below:---




These procedure will let you get the seat out.
Now if you need to change the seat cover the headrest or lumbar support knob should come off.
For that,Spin the knob counter-clockwise until it stops.Continue screwing counter-clockwise and pull out hard.

NOTE: While re-installing the knob you will have to press the knob "in" first and then screw it clockwise to tighten it back on.

These details will help.
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FORD IGNITION MODULE

Location of Ignition module on Ford Vehicles.

FOR 1995 f150 5.0:

If the  distributor use the TFI module? If so look for a thin (1/2 inch) 4 inch long, inch and a half tall thingy with a plug in the 5 oclockish position.
The module is gray in color and distributor has to be out to replace the Ignition module.

============
1990/2002 Ford
The owners manual says Ignition module to be mounted to the rear of the left hood hinge on the left fender inner apron.
It costs for about $170.
Aftermarket Ignition module costs about $ 90.
================================

The TFI module is mounted in a heatsink on the fender on all F150s after year 1991. If yours is faulty the only part worth replacing this with is a another Ford part, none of the aftermarket modules last.After market parts are not performance wise.They are cheap but dont last long.

=======================

1995 Ford  F-150 4.9L

The ignition module is attached to the driver side sheet metal, in a heat sink bracket with aluminum cooling fins, just below where the hood hinge attaches to the sheet metal. It's held on by two hex head screws.

=======================

1993 Ford Festiva 4 cylinder

The ignition module is located by your coil. This unit has the switching transistor in it.

See location for the ignition module:

Procedure to test ignition coil :---

If the electrical connectors of Ignition coil are wet,then first dry them.Clean them with soft cloth.Then using a test light,check for power at the positive side of the coil,with the key on.

If this is ok,back probe the negative side of the coil with the test light and have someone else crank the engine. Watch the test light,it should flash or at least flicker on and off. If not,the switching transistor in the module may be blown.If it does,it may be a bad coil.

NOW, if the test light plugged in on the negative side of the coil is not flickering (flashing) when you crank it,the transistor could be open.

Crank the engine and watch your check engine light on the dash.Key on,the light should be on.During cranking,it should go off. This is a quick check of the crank sensor.

If the light stays on,you will need to replace it.

The Crank sensor is located in the distributor.Also,if the crank sensor is bad,it will not allow the transistor in the ignition module to open and close.

===================

Ford 97 F350

Symptoms of faulty ignition module:

Car will not start.Or it will start but not completely turn over and run.Or no spark problem.

The ignition control modules are common for failure in such cases.There are also other possibilities like faulty distributor or issue with ignition coil or faulty crank sensor.

On 1997 F350 the Ignition Control Module is located at the LH rear of engine compartment, on fender apron...most parts stores can test them...

see the diagram shown below for its location:---

On some cases its seen/noticed that When ignition module gets weak.At that time it stops when it gets warm or engine gets warm and starts working when everything gets cool.In that case also ignition module has to be replaced.These is the start indication that ignition module is about to fail.

====================

1987 ford ranger

Replace ignition coil but still no spark,its faulty ignition module.


The usual suspect on your 2.9 for a loss of spark is caused by a failed Ignition module and not the coil, when replacing the module (mounted on the distributor) its also a good idea to replace the stator inside the distributor at the same time. The distributor has to be remove to replace the stator.
Ignition module is pointed with red arrow:---
See the help diagram shown below:----




To remove the screws you will need a 5.5 thin wall metric socket , they also sell a special tool for it for about $8.00 .Start with the Ignition module and if its still has a problem, replace the stator.
======================

1990 ford e350

The ignition module Location diagram is shown below:---



========================

1996 Ford f-150

Vehicle cranks,misfires and stalls

Check power to ignition coil.It should have power.
If no power then there is a problem.
But if it has power then check the ground signal,here is the procedure to see if its getting a ground signal trigger.
You will need a  test light.Its easily available at local auto part sore or electrical parts store.Hook it up backwards. Hook the alligator clip of the test light and hook it to battery positive, and take the tip of the test light and touch it the signal wire of the coil. The test light should blink when cranking over the engine if its getting a signal. If you use a conventional test light, it will flicker very very dim (so look closely) if the coil is getting a signal to fire the spark.

If the ignition coil is getting battery voltage and a ground signal trigger to fire the spark and is not firing any spark out while cranking the engine over, the ignition coil is bad and will need to be replaced.

If the ignition coil is not getting a ground signal trigger to fire the spark, then either the PCM or the ignition module is going to be at fault. Just be sure to check the inputs before replacing either of them.

see the wiring diagram shown below:---




If all checked ok,then it can be problem with crank sensor itself.
You could have a bad cam or crank sensor. To check them all you have to do is turn the key on and crank. The check engine light should normally come on when the key is turned to the on position, then go off when cranking. The computer turns off the check engine light when it recognizes the crank signal. So if there is a bad crank sensor, the computer will never turn off the check engine light when cranking! If thats the case its time to replace the sensor! Just be sure the wiring is in good shape.If the wires are loose or dirty,then try cleaning the connections and refit it properly and see all works good or not.


Also on this year vehicle, the crank sensor is only used to detect misfires. Engine only needs the signal in the distributor to start and run. If the signal is not getting to engine the crank issues will be noticed.

You can verify this by disconnecting the crank sensor and checking to see if the engine fires up or not.

=======================
1992 Ford Escort
Has power to coil but no Spark at spark plugs

It can be faulty crank sensor or issue with ignition module or a loose timing belt,or timing belt out of alignment or broken timing belt.

In this cases first try common test procedure.This test is signal test.
Does the check engine light come on when the key is turned to on and go out when cranking?

If the check engine light comes on and goes out that means  engine rpm signal is coming there to tell the module to fire the coil.But may be module is not doing its job.The ignition module needs testing.

UNDERSTAND THE IGNITION MODULE WORKING THEORY:--
what is there is ignition module?
The Electronic Distributorless Ignition System (EDIS) , consists of a

• Variable Reluctance Sensor (VRS) , 
• an EDIS Module, 
• an EEC IV processor and one 4-tower Coil Pack. 

WORKING /OPERATION OF THIS SYSTEM:
This system operates by sending crankshaft position information from the VRS to the EDIS module. 

• The module generates a PIP signal and sends it to the EEC IV processor. 
• The processor responds with a Spark Angle Word (SAW) signal containing advance or retard timing information back to the EDIS module.
•  The module processes VRS and SAW signals and decides which coils to fire. 
• In addition, the module generates an Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal to processor which is used to indicate a failure mode and also provide a tach output signal.

See the help diagram shown below:---

ON ford Escort Dual Cam 1.8L engine  the crankshaft position sensor is inside the distributor itself and as long as the check engine light goes out then the engine control module is receiving an engine rpm signal which should have the ECM tell the Ignition module to fire the coil.

On dual cam 1.8L Ignition module is Located under the coil on its mounting bracket:
See the help diagram shown below:----




==================================

1995 Ford Mustang

Ignition module replacing procedure and Location diagram

Ignition Control Module

Procedure to remove

1. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring connector from ignition control module (ICM) (12A297 see diagram below) .
2. Remove screws retaining heatsink/ ignition control module to front fender apron (16055) .
3. Remove two screws retaining ignition control module to heatsink and remove ignition control module .

Procedure to Install

1. Coat metal baseplate of ignition control module uniformly with silicone compound, approximately 0.79 mm (1/32 inch) thick. 
2. Use Silicone Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A.Its easily available at parts stores.
3. Once this is done .Now position ignition control module onto heatsink and tighten two retaining screws to 1.7-4.0 Nm (15-35 lb-in).
4. After that Install ignition control module /heatsink to RH front fender apron . Tighten retaining screws to 10.2-13.8 Nm (90-120 lb-in).
5. Connect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) to the ignition control module.
6. Test its working to confirm that installation is done right.
7. In some rare cases new parts too comes faulty.So check the part quality before installation.But branded parts,that has minor chances of coming faulty,then local Aftermarket parts.

See the help diagram shown below:----

==============================-==============

1995 Ford Bronco 302 Engine

No spark issues

First test and  find out if it has spark or not. When it acts up and quits, pull the coil wire off the coil (big center one). Crank the engine over, if there is a good spark there consistent, then the ignition system works.

To test Remove the coil wire from the coil. This is the wire that goes from the coil to the center of the dist.

If the spark test good then its timing issue or fuel issue.

Also make sure that the rotor under the dist cap is turning consistently. If it stops and then turns, then the dist gear could be worn away and will need to be replaced. So lets make sure the dist rotor is turning.On some cases this issue was also noticed.

In such cases most likely part that fails is the TFI ignition module either located on the side of the dist or remotely located on the fender inner. Looks similar to below.

See the image of Ignition module

This details will help.

Thanks.

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2009 Hummer H2 Door Panel Removal

How to remove Door panel on 2009 Hummer H2.

The complete procedure with diagram is explained below:----

The front and rear door panel removal :----


The procedure is basically the same for both sides front or rear:---
The procedure starts here.See Component Name listed below and compare with the diagram shown below the procedure:----

1) Front Side Door Inside Handle Bezel Finish Cover
2) Front Side Door Pull Handle Cover
3) Front Side Door Locking Rod Knob Assembly

Procedure
Ensure the locking rod is in the unlocked position.
Use a flat-bladed tool to disengage the detent tab and then remove the knob by pulling upward.
When re-installing, push the knob down until the detent tab touches the locking rod opening cover.
Push the detent tab into the lock knob to locking rod.


4) Front Side Door Trim Panel Bolt (Qty: 3)
 Tighten
2 N·m (18 lb in)

5)Front Side Door Trim Panel Assembly

Procedure
Disengage retainer.
Use a door trim pad removal tool to aid in the removal of the trim panel.
Disengage the door lock cable.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.
Transfer parts as necessary.

The help diagram is shown below:----




NOW THE REAR SIDE DOOR PANEL REMOVAL DIAGRAM:---



This will help.
Thanks.

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