It's a circuit breaker. It being hot means there is a short. I would check the wiring that goes into the door. On the newer 2nd gens, there is also a main power wire that runs across the middle of the driver side footwell from front to back that can corrode and/or short out.
For the diagram see below
There is a 30 amp Circuit Breaker, located in the Fuse Block for Power windows.
You need to test before & after the Power Window Switch to the 2 wires on the Window Motor:
At the Window Motor 2 wires:
Should work like this:
Key ON
Switch held to UP position
One wire will have 12 Volts +
One wire will have Ground -
Switch held in DOWN position
The wire that had 12 Volts + is now Ground -
The wire that had Ground - is now 12 Volts +
If voltage does not "reverse" as shown above,
Test Switch
Or, look for broken wires at the Driver Kick Panel / Door Boot
If voltage & ground checks good on both wires, then the Window Motor is bad.
How long does the power remain at zero volts? If it comes right back to 12V, then I would say it still is a connection issue. If it stays at 0V for quite a while, you have a short in the wiring between the switch and the motor that is tripping the circuit breaker.
Power windows works intermittently?
http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/pontiac-grand-am-power-window-not.html
See B30 that is circuit breaker :
There is a 30 amp Circuit Breaker, located in the Fuse Block for Power windows.
You need to test before & after the Power Window Switch to the 2 wires on the Window Motor:
At the Window Motor 2 wires:
Should work like this:
Key ON
Switch held to UP position
One wire will have 12 Volts +
One wire will have Ground -
Switch held in DOWN position
The wire that had 12 Volts + is now Ground -
The wire that had Ground - is now 12 Volts +
If voltage does not "reverse" as shown above,
Test Switch
Or, look for broken wires at the Driver Kick Panel / Door Boot
If voltage & ground checks good on both wires, then the Window Motor is bad.
This details will help.
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