No spark problem.In this case spark plugs and coil packs needs to be tested.
In some cases its faulty Ignition coil module.
Here are some tests you can do to diagnose the problem.
First, use a voltmeter or 12 volt test light to check for power on the red wire going to pin 8 of the ignition control module when the key is on. The module is in the left front corner of the engine compartment.
If there is no power, the problem is the ignition switch or EEC relay. If there is power, next, check the ignition coil as listed below.
IGNITION COIL TESTINGPrimary and Secondary Circuit Tests
PRIMARY RESISTANCE
Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines
B+ to Coil 1 B+ to Coil 2 B+ to Coil 3
The resistance between all of these terminals should have been between 0.3-1.0 ohms. If the resistance was more or less than this value, the coil should be replaced with a new one.
SECONDARY RESISTANCE
Terminal 3 (coil 1)-spark plugs 1 and 5 Terminal 2 (coil 3)-spark plugs 2 and 6Terminal 1 (coil 2)-spark plugs 3 and 4
If the coils test good, move on the the crankshaft sensor.
Using a DVOM set to the DC scale to monitor less than 5 volts, measure the voltage between the sensor Cylinder Identification (CID) terminal and ground by backprobing the sensor connector. If the connector cannot be backprobed, fabricate or purchase a test harness. The sensor is okay if the voltage reading varies more than 0.1 volt with the engine running at varying RPM. (check both the blue and gray wires at the ignition module with the engine cranking.)
In some cases its faulty Ignition coil module.
Here are some tests you can do to diagnose the problem.
First, use a voltmeter or 12 volt test light to check for power on the red wire going to pin 8 of the ignition control module when the key is on. The module is in the left front corner of the engine compartment.
If there is no power, the problem is the ignition switch or EEC relay. If there is power, next, check the ignition coil as listed below.
IGNITION COIL TESTINGPrimary and Secondary Circuit Tests
- Turn the ignition switch OFF , disconnect the battery, then detach the wiring harness connector from the ignition coil to be tested.
- Check for dirt, corrosion or damage on the terminals.
PRIMARY RESISTANCE
- Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the following terminals on the ignition coil, and note the resistance:
Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines
B+ to Coil 1 B+ to Coil 2 B+ to Coil 3
The resistance between all of these terminals should have been between 0.3-1.0 ohms. If the resistance was more or less than this value, the coil should be replaced with a new one.
SECONDARY RESISTANCE
Fig. Fig. 1: Engine ignition coil harness connections-3.0L and 4.0L engines
- Measure, using the ohmmeter, and note the resistance between each corresponding coil terminal and the two spark plug wire towers on the ignition coil. The coil terminals and plug wires towers are grouped as follows:
Terminal 3 (coil 1)-spark plugs 1 and 5 Terminal 2 (coil 3)-spark plugs 2 and 6Terminal 1 (coil 2)-spark plugs 3 and 4
If the coils test good, move on the the crankshaft sensor.
Using a DVOM set to the DC scale to monitor less than 5 volts, measure the voltage between the sensor Cylinder Identification (CID) terminal and ground by backprobing the sensor connector. If the connector cannot be backprobed, fabricate or purchase a test harness. The sensor is okay if the voltage reading varies more than 0.1 volt with the engine running at varying RPM. (check both the blue and gray wires at the ignition module with the engine cranking.)
Fig. Fig. 3: CKP sensor wire harness connections for the 4.0L (VIN X and E) engines
If there is power and both the coils and sensor check good, replace the ignition control module.
If there is power and both the coils and sensor check good, replace the ignition control module.
This details will help you.
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