How to repair direct drive washing machines?

This applies to both their Washing Machines and their Dryers. What compounds this problem is the fact that most of these failures are catastrophic, expensive, and a major parts replacement headache.

Nobody wants to buy a Washer or Dryer that has an average lifespan of 6 months to 2 years, and that is what most of us end up with these days.
This isn't entirely the manufacturers fault however. In an effort to please their customers, many manufacturers try to add innovative features and advancements which make your appliance more user friendly. The competition is often tough and heated with the end result that the manufacturer is often rushed, to market a machine that competes equally with it's name brand rivals.

The case for Front Loading Washing Machines

If you own one, or have owned one in the past, I won't surprise you with the statement that these are the most problematic and troublesome machines in this field. Front Loaders are prone to leak from their silicone aprons, burn out their rear bearings, slip off of their suspension brackets and kill their own motors and brains.

Direct Drive Washing Machines consist of 4 distinct parts.
The pump, the motor, the coupling and the transmission.
All of which can be disassembled and replaced by the least educated among us with very little difficulty.
Basically, if you can change the oil and filter in your car, fill your own dishwasher or de-lime your Mr. Coffee, you have all the skills you need to fix your OWN Direct Drive Washing Machine.

Tools required

1. A standard Flathead Screw Driver (Motor and Water Pump Retention Clips)
2. Water Pump Pliers for hoses (Channel Lock Pliers will also work)
3. A 1/4 inch socket and Handle, or 1/4 inch nut driver.(Motor Nuts)
4. A 9/16 to 5/8 inch socket and 3/8 inch ratchet (Transmission)
5. A 3/8 Socket and 3/8-8 inch extension plus 3/8 ratchet (Agitator)
6. Phillips Screw Driver

Symptoms and Cures

1. Symptom: Leaking water from the front of the washer

Cure: Tighten the Water hoses(Tools #2) to your machine or Replace your water pump (Tools, #1, #2 ) Remove the retention clips that hold your pump to the motor. Squeeze and slide your water pump clamps away from the water pump and remove the hoses, then replace the pump.

2. Symptom: Washer drains the water, but fails to spin or agitate.

Cure: Replace the Lid Switch (Tools #6)

or Replace the motor coupling located directly in front of and attached to the motor by removing the water pump (Tools, #1, #2 ), hoses, then the water pump Retention clips (Tools #1) then the nuts holding the motor clips down (Tools #3).and finally the clips holding the motor (Tools #1).

Pry the plastic tripod shaped plastic piece from both the motor and the transmission (Tools #1) and throw them away along with the Rubber cushion between them. Replace the Tripods with the new coupling partsexactly as they were before removal. The plastic tripods will be tight so you can tap them down flush to the motor shaft and transmission to seat them in place. Replace the rubber dampener on the transmission taking care to match the motor tripod to the empty teardrop shaped holes and seat the motor back in place then clip it all back together. I never replace the screws since they make no difference at all when locking the motor down. The clips are more than enough to keep this all together.

3. Symptom: Washer fills with water, but doesn't spin, agitate or drain, and no motor noise is heard

Cure: Again this may be a lid switch depending on the year and model (Tools #6) or it is the Start upcapacitor (Tools #3 or #5). The capacitor is usually a long 4 to 5 inch black to brown cylinder with 2 electric leads recessed into the head. It is located in one of 3 places. In the head and timer area, Mounted to the back inside wall of the machine or Screwed directly on the motor with a circular bracket. You can usually remove the capacitor easily if it's mounted to the inside wall or the motor. The head/timer area will require you to remove 2 Phillips head screws (Tools #6) slide the head forward and unhook it from the base of the machine.
The capacitor may either be mounted in the head itself, or the top of the steel base.

4. Symptom: Motor spins, water fills, pump drains water, lid switch activates the motor, timer hums but washer neither agitates or spins.

Cure: Replace the transmission.(Tools # 1 through #5). there are 3 bolts that hold the transmission in place, as well as the nut that holds the agitator in place.

I usually remove the agitator bolt first,


then tip the Washing Machine 60 degrees on it's back to access the transmission for this repair, then I remove the wire loom attached to the motor as well as the capacitor if it is screwed to the motor. Then remove the wires from the small plastic loop that locks the motor wire loom in place on the transmission. Next, remove the 3 bolts that hold the transmission to the machine and slide it out without bending the agitator shaft. Replace the transmission with a used or new transmission that exactly matches the old transmission agitator shaft length. Assembly is the exact reverse of disassembly.

5. Symptom: Washer does exactly what it is supposed to do, except that when the lid is opened, the tub makes a howling or grinding noise, and sometimes a shrieking or whistling sound, followed by a burning smell.

Cure: This is caused by the Tub Brake (Clutch) which is located directly on top of the transmission and has a loose rubber noise dampener ring attached to the outside of a shiny silver/chrome looking wheel. Inside this wheel you will find a circular ring with a spring and 2 dog eared bends in it like this /.

This piece is the actual brake (Clutch) shoe, and if every other hole on that shoe does not have a white pad riveted to it, your brake has either begun to fail, or has already failed completely. Replacement is easy, just grab your pliers, squeeze those 2 dog eared bends together and lift it out.
When you install the new one, be careful sliding the transmission back on because there is a white plastic cam on the drum that must be free spinning to activate the brake.


This cam must not rest between the Dog ear bends "/ ( a common mistake) but to either side of them " / or / ".

6. Symptom: Lower Agitator rotates, upper agitator spins freely, Clothes are still dirty.

Cure: Replace your Agitator Dogs.


This is a typical agitator dog replacement kit above, but in most situations, you will only need the 4 beige dogs you see in the picture.
You will need to remove your Agitator bolt to release the agitator assembly. Then you will need to pull the large white piece as seen at the top of the photo straight up to access the dogs directly. Most of the time the entire top half of the agitator breaks free, so don't get excited, this is to be expected. Replace the dogs in the slots provided exactly as they came out with the teeth grabbing the inner rim of the agitator. Then reassemble and bolt in place.

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For NO-SPIN problem on top loader washing machines, this will help:--

Whirlpool manufactured direct-drive TOP LOADING washers with a no-spin problem. This includes Kenmore, Roper, Estate, and certain Kitchenaid, Kelvinator and Maytag models.

The most common source of a no spin problem can either be attributed to a broken motor coupling, or a lid switch malfunction.

MOTOR COUPLING:

If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking.

The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as a "direct-drive" system. They do wear out and can break.

LID SWITCH:

If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and won't advance to the rinse cycle, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The washer usually will NOT drain either. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, then replace it.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly. The average price for a replacement lid switch is $20 - $30.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com

pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

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For more help:----Problem related to overfilling.Click the link below:--

Dishwasher fills with water even after turned off?

Washing machine fills with water even after turned off?

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How to to Repair lens on Digital Cameras?

Lens cover issues are generally caused by some sort of shock to the camera, such as dropping it or it getting hit against a surface. It doesn't need to be with any amount of real force: cameras are very delicate pieces of equipment, and a surprisingly small level is required to cause an automatic lens cover error. This will either short the lens cover, causing it to be stuck, or jamming or misplacing the guide pins of the lens cover. The other major cause is some sort of particulate getting trapped in the lens cover mechanism. If you dropped your camera with the lens extended, or did not take the proper precautions to prevent dirt from entering the lens barrel, it is possible that there is some sort of obstruction that is prohibiting the lens mechanism from functioning properly. Carefully inspect the camera lens and lens barrel for any sand, dirt, etc. If you are having problems with your Digital Camera and the lens not working properly then here are some things that you can try that may help you get it working again. These problems can include: The camera not starting up, the zoom function not working properly, The focus function not working properly, and the lens not retracting when the camera is shutoff.

Keep in mind as you try these things that realistically you have about a 50-50 chance of fixing many of these problems, and the further down the list you go the more chance there is that the fix may break your camera, but they, it isn't working now, so what do you have to loose? Just remember that IF your camera is still covered under a warranty, it will be better for you to return it and get a new one then to try and fix it yourself.
The first thing to make sure of is that you have fresh, working batteries in your camera. If your batteries are over a year old they are not putting out full power anymore and you may just need to replace them with new ones. I have seen some batteries die in months. Some will fail very quickly, so never assume that a battery is good. Try a new one! Also try holding the function or OK button while you start up the camera. This will keep some of the other functions from working and give you more power on the start-up.
Next, remove the memory card and try to start the camera without the memory card installed. This will cause some cameras to reset. Then turn the camera off and insert the memory card. Again restart the camera and see if it works
If your digital camera has an AV cable, inset that and try to start it up. This also will shut down some of the other functions and give it more power for the start-up. It also may be a good idea to keep it plugged in if you need to try some of the later fixes.
Now try to lay the camera flat on it's back. Push the shutter button in as you turn the camera on. The camera will then try to auto focus as it is starting up. The combination of the focus and the start-up may free the lens.
Now comes the parts that can be a bit more risky.
Using compressed air, like the cans that you blow your keyboard out with or a regular air compressor and nozzle, blow air around the rings of the lens. This may dislodge the dirt that is hindering the lens from moving. Another way also is to use a shop vac. Hold the nozzle over the lens with it sucking air over the lens as you start the camera up. Be-careful that the air does not pull too hard on the lens and cause more damage. In some cases though, the gentle pulling will help to extend the lens.
If that does not help, using a thin piece of paper, you can slide it into the gap around the lens barrel, or use a needle to dislodge dirt if you can see it. Just be careful not to slide anything in too deep and ruin the dust gasket around the lens. Also be careful not to scratch the lens.
Now we will start to get desperate. Take the camera and tap it gently on a table top or other hard surface. The cover for the USB cable is a good place to tap on. This is often rubber and will cushion the blow a bit. Slapping the camera on your hand or the inside of your thigh may also work. Oh, and make sure to unhook that AV cable when doing this. Also be aware that this may cause the internal components such as the ribbon cables or wiring to come unhooked and cause other problems. Very hard banging, can also cause the LCD screen to crack.
Now, if you have dropped your camera with the lens extended, and the lens is obviously crooked, then you will need to tap it straight. To do this use something softer, but with a bit of weight. A pencil or a hair brush may work well. Tap the lens in such a way as to knock it straight. In other words the opposite way that it is pointing crooked. Do this while trying to turn it on and off. Tapping it on a table top may also work.
Now the really desperate fix. If everything else has not worked, then you are left with no options. Forcing the lens is now your only choice.
Gently as possible take the lens and with a pulling, twisting, rotating motion, pull and turn the lens at the same time. Also attempt to straighten the lens while doing this. You can then push it back gently and try a few times, but do not push the lens all the way back in or you will not be able to grab it anymore. If you are doing this and you feel a click, then stop and try the camera, as the guide pins may have clicked back in place and you are good. It is also possible that the click is the guide pins breaking, which of course is bad news.
If you are successful in getting the lens to go in and out freely again, you may then have to turn the digital camera on and off a few times, push the shutter button part way in to activate the auto focus, a few times, to get the camera to recalibrate the auto focus again. Doing this should help to get it to work again. Resting the camera may also help to get it to focus properly again.

If your camera is still under warranty when your lens becomes jammed, you should first call the manufacturer of your digital camera to see if lens repair is covered under the warranty. If you try to repair your camera lens on your own while your digital camera is under warranty, the manufacturer may be able to void your entire warranty. Unfortunately, in most cases, lens repair is not covered under a basic warranty anyway. The cost of having the lens professionally repaired may cost more than the digital camera is actually worth, so be sure to ask for an exact quote before sending your digital camera out for repair.

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For any other camera related help:---

Click the link below:---

How to correct lens error on digital camera?

Click the link below:---

How to get Digital Camera Manuals, Drivers, Downloads, and Support?

Click the link below for

How to Unlock SD Card?

FOR:--

How to download Pictures from Digital Camera?

Click the link below:---

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/05/how-to-download-pictures-from-digital.html

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For :---

How to Recover data from Memory Card?

Click the link below:---

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/05/how-to-recover-data-from-memory-card.html