Plymouth Chrysler Grand Voyager Fuel Pump

Plymouth Chrysler Grand Voyager Fuel pump assembly diagrams

Plymouth throttle body details and diagrams

Plymouth Fuel system Hose And Fuel Pump assembly:---

Start at the canister under the hood and see that the vapor hose to the fuel tank is clear. The check valve is at the tank, you can try the "jiggle" of it, but you will want to see if the fuel will go into the tank with it unplugged, temporarily, as with the front part as well.

Relieving Fuel System Pressure

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the fuel tank filler cap to release the pressure in the fuel tank.

Remove the cap from the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail. 

1. 
   
   

   Fig. Fuel pressure test port-2.4L engine
   
   
   
   

   Fig. Fuel pressure test port-3.3L and 3.8L engines

Place the open end of Fuel Pressure Release Hose tool C-4799-1, into an approved gasoline container. Place a shop towel under the test port.

Connect the other end of the hose onto the fuel pressure test port to relieve the system pressure.

After the fuel pressure has been released, remove the hose from the test port and install the cap.

When repairs are completed, connect the negative battery cable.

Plymouth fuel filter replace:---

The fuel filter mounts to the top of the fuel tank. The inlet and outlet tubes are permanently attached to the filter

REMOVAL

Perform fuel system pressure release. (with the engine running, remove the fuel pump relay or fuse, wait for the vehicle to stall)

Disconnect quick-connect fittings from fuel pump module and chassis fuel supply tube.

Remove filter retaining screw

To remove the fuel filter, it may me necessary to lower the fuel tank about 3 inches.

INSTALLATION

Install fuel filter to tank.

The fuel supply (to filter) tube, return tube (to pump module) and fuel supply (to chassis fuel line) are permanently attached the fuel filter.

The ends of the fuel supply and return tubes have different size quick-connect fittings.

Apply a light coating of clean 30 weight engine oil to the fuel filter nipples.

Install fuel tubes.

The Fuel pump relay:

The relay is located on the left fender under the hood.

To Test the Fuel Pump relay:---

Remove relay before testing.

Using an ohmmeter, perform a resistance test between terminals 85 and 86. Resistance value (ohms) should be 75 ±5 ohms for resistor equipped relays.

Connect the ohmmeter between terminals number 87A and 30. Continuity should be present at this time.

Connect the ohmmeter between terminals number 87 and 30. Continuity should not be present at this time.

Use a set of jumper wires (16 gauge or smaller). Connect one jumper wire between terminal number 85 (on the relay) to the ground side (-) of a 12 Volt power source.

Attach the other jumper wire to the positive side (+) of a 12V power source. Do not connect this jumper wire to relay at this time.

Caution: Do not allow the ohmmeter to contact terminals 85 or 86 during these tests. Damage to ohmmeter may result.

Attach the other jumper wire (12V +) to terminal number 86. This will activate the relay. Continuity should now be present between terminals number 87 and 30. Continuity should not be present between terminals number 87A and 30.

Disconnect jumper wires from relay and 12 Volt power source.

If continuity or resistance tests did not pass, replace relay. If tests passed, refer to Wiring Diagrams for fuel system wiring diagrams.

You can run 12 volts to the pump to test it. You also do realize you only get voltage to the pump for a couple seconds when turning the key on correct? Then you get voltage again when cranking.

If you have voltage to the pump and no fuel pressure then yes the pump is bad or there is no fuel in the tank.

HOWTO REPLACE Throttle Body

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the air inlet-to-throttle body hose clamp.
Remove the 2 mounting screws and air inlet resonator.
1. 

   Fig. . . . then remove the throttle cable bracket from the throttle body unit
   
   
   
   

   Fig. Disengage the electrical connectors from the IAC motor and TPS-2.4L engine
   
   
   
   

   Fig. Disengage the electrical connectors from the IAC motor and TPS-3.3L and 3.8L engines
   
   
   
   

   Fig. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the throttle body
   
   
   
   

   Fig. Remove the throttle body mounting nuts . . .

Remove the throttle and speed control (if equipped) cables from the lever and bracket.

Disengage the electrical connectors from the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the throttle body.

Remove the throttle body mounting nuts.
2. 
   
   

   
   

   Fig. . . . then remove the throttle body assembly
   
   
   
   

   Fig. Be sure to replace the throttle body gasket
Remove the throttle body assembly and mounting gasket.

To install:

Position the throttle body, along with a new mounting gasket, onto the intake manifold.
Install the mounting nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Connect the vacuum hoses to the throttle bod
Attach the IAC motor and TPS electrical connections to the throttle body.
Connect the throttle and speed control (if equipped) cables.
Install the air cleaner/inlet resonator assembly.
Connect the negative battery cable.

Chevy impala battery cable diagram

2006 Chevrolet impala battery cable diagram

See below the diagram showing where the Battery cables Front(Drivers side) and Rear (passengers side) go:

Locate the Chevy Impala's battery on the passenger side in a tight spot up against the interior wall.

Below is the right hand battery and junction block.

Starting with the battery on the passenger side, the positive cable splits into 2 and one , 

Labeled A, leg goes directly to the starter, where it is joined with the only positive battery feed from the drivers side battery. The second positive feed from the battery goes into the junction block at the lower passenger side (B)

C runs directly to the intake heater

D feeds the left fuse block

E feeds the glow plug controller

F is the charge wire from the alternator.

Both battery negative cables go directly to the engine block. left and right side. 

See the Battery Cable Diagram:---

2007 Chrysler Pt Cruise Camshaft Sensor

Camshaft Sensor Faulty

Intermittent P0344 Error Code

Q: How To Ohm Test Camshaft Sensor?

Why the Error code is intermittently coming up?

A: Testing Camshaft Sensor

There isn't an ohm specification for the cam sensor to be able to test it in that way. Proper testing of the sensor would involve check it's reference voltage, pullup voltage and sensor ground and looking at it's signal with a labscope while the problem is happening.

Intermittent Camshaft Sensor Error code 

If it is setting a P0344 the powertrain control module (PCM) is seeing an erratic signal from the sensor. Possible causes are the sensor, wiring, connections, the tone magnet, and cam timing issues.

Error Code P0344 Is For Camshaft Sensor

By far the most likely cause for this code is the cam sensor itself. If you're using an aftermarket sensor then that is almost surely the cause of your problem. Aftermarket sensors have shown horrible quality and will very often set a P0344 or even a P0016 right out of the box.

Mopar Parts

If you're using a Mopar sensor and are positive the cam timing and components are ok then look toward a wiring or connection issue. You can try replacing the connector or go over the wiring, you can also try hard wiring the cam sensor circuits at least temporarily if you need to.

This details will help.

Thanks.

Chrysler TC Maserati Faulty PCM

Multiple Electrical Problems On Chrysler

Chrysler PCM Problem

Q: 91 Chrysler tc Maserati while driving, a/c shuts down,speed control quits,may go to high idle, numerous engine codes appear. let it set for 20 or 30 minutes and everything normal again.

Additional Info For Error Codes Retrieved:
the fault codes that show up are 25(short in AIS control circuit) and 35 (radiator fan relay).


A: It sounds like  problem with the powertrain control module (PCM). Everything that you are having trouble with and the fact that it sets numerous codes in the PCM makes it likely to be a PCM problem.

Why The Problem Occurs For Sometime?
PCM's will often act up when they get hot and work normally again as they cool. You may be able to run cool water over the PCM or put a fan on it to see if this helps it come back and work quicker, if this allows a shorter time until it works normally again that is a pretty good sign the problem is internal in the PCM. Water may not be the greatest thing due to the age of the car though. There is a sealing/heatsink gel in the PCM that could be dried and cracking, water may make the problem worse.

Other Possibilities:
It's possible that one of the PCM input or output circuits are shorting to power and ground and causing the issue and the codes may shed some light on what circuits are being affected by whatever is happening.

Loose ground connection Issue:
The PCM could also be suffering from a poor power or ground feed. A poor power or ground could cause all of the issues you are having. Before condemning the PCM I would definitely load test the powers and grounds at the time it is acting up.

As Per Error Code Retrieved
It wouldn't hurt to make sure the idle air control motor circuits and cooling fan relay circuits aren't shorting to power or ground at the time this is happening though. If you can prove the wiring for these two components good at the time the codes are setting then you can be confident that you have a PCM problem based on that alone.


This details will help.
Thanks.

2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Idles High

Idles High

Dodge Engine jerks into gear

Q: 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 QC SLT 4.7L automatic engine with 165,000 miles. My idle continues to fluctuate. When I come to a quick stop the engine continues to idle high. While take off  truck moves slow for a few feet then jerks into gear. Also, in park or drive it sometimes jerks into gear.

A: It is most likely  throttle position sensor (TPS) issue. 

For 2004 Dodge Ram model truck The TPS is mounted on the left side of the throttle body and tells the engine and trans controllers how far the throttle is open.

Why Such Problem Occurs:

When the sensor gets worn it will start to create small voltage spikes in it's signal and the engine controller things you are opening the throttle, so the idle can be erratic. If the voltage just stays high then so will the idle.

The trans controller also receives the TPS signal and uses it for shifting control. If the idle fluctuation and the trans symptoms started at about the same time then the TPS is likely causing the shifting issues too.

Monitoring TPS Signal:

The TPS signal can be monitored with a scan tool or lab scope. You can also try unplugging it while the idle is fluctuating, if it straightens up then replace the sensor. You can also tap on the sensor or wiggle the connector, if this has any effect on the engine then replace the sensor.

This will help.

Thanks.

Dodge Ram 350 Van Speedometer Goes Wild

Speedometer Runs Erratic

Q: 1994 Dodge Ram 350 Van. Speedometer occasionally goes wild--0 to 60 mph back and forth. then quits to 0 for an hour.

Fuel guage does not work.


A: Most probably the problem is Speed sensor or its issue with instrument cluster.The vehicle speed sensor is the most likely cause for this problem. The vehicle speed sensor is in the left rear of the transmission, hopefully this is the sensor that you have to replace. The one on the top of the rear differential is only used for ABS on these older vans.Please make sure you replace the correct sensor.

If the correct sensor is replaced and the symptoms are the same then you almost surely have a wiring problem. The sensor receives an 8v reference, a sensor ground, and has a signal wire. While it's acting up you would need to start by testing at the sensor to check the reference voltage, sensor ground and the pullup voltage on the signal wire. You should find at least one of these is missing. I would recommend at least a good visual inspection of the wiring leaving the sensor and running up to the engine compartment.

The fuel gauge could either be the fuel sender or wiring, assuming the gauge in the replacement cluster is good. Outside of a visual wiring inspection you would need to drop the fuel tank and check the sender's pullup voltage and sensor ground, if they are ok then you know the problem is the sender.

This will help.
Thanks.

Dodge Caliber ETC light comes on, the car bucks and loses acceleration

2011 Dodge Caliber ETC light comes ON

Car bucks and loses Acceleration

Q: 2011 Dodge Caliber. The ETC light comes on, the car bucks and loses acceleration.

A: This seems to be a common problem in the Caliber.

Correctly repairing the problem will require diagnosing it. There are few possibilities that can cause such problem.When the ETC light comes on it is because the powertrain control module (PCM) has seen a problem somewhere that affects it's ability to control engine RPM and it sets a fault code.

Troubleshooting has to go step by step.The first step in diagnosing the problem is seeing what fault codes are stored from there, an accurate diagnosis will most likely require some testing to be done at the time it is acting up.

As per the problem described it seems that issue is bad MAP sensor, throttle body, a vacuum leak, wiring, the PCM itself, etc. It sounds like the engine is going into limp-in, which often happens when the PCM sees a problem on either the throttle body's TPS or drive motor circuits. I've seen a handful of throttle body failures on these cars, there's a good chance that is what your car needs.

Any professional garage shop should be able to diagnose and repair the problem. If it does need a throttle body then it will most likely need to come from a dealer,because  aftermarket will not carry a replacement for throttle body.