schematics and diagrams: How to replace the fan belt tensioner on 2000 ford focus?

The pulley wheel bearing on the auxiliary drive belt tensioner, which does not come as a separate part from ford, was showing signs of wear so I decided to replace the tensioner.

It's not a simple "whip the old one out" and "stick another one in" as the information in my Haynes manual suggests. In fact the information in my Haynes Service and Repair Manual - Ford Focus 1998 to 2001 (S to Y reg) Petrol and Diesel.

Also, looking under the car it appeared that the Power Steering Pump is bolted onto, or on top of, the tensioner which means the power steering pump may have to come off in order to remove the tensioner. Not so simple a job as the Haynes manual describes.

Investigation Work:

I have discovered there are three, 15mm nuts (Torqued to 48Nm) securing the Tensioner, two below the power steering pump and one above, identifiable by three protruding studs with T40 torx ends. An E8 torx spanner would be necessary if it were proposed to remove these studs.
In addition, I have also discovered that the power steering pump, secured with four, 10mm bolts, is bolted directly on top of the tensioner, piggy back style (There are four bolt holes in the tensioner body for mounting the power steering pump). So in order to remove the tensioner, it is also necessary to remove (and drain) the power steering pump. An alternative method of removing the tensioner might be to unbolt the pump (without draining) and move it to one side out the way while the tensioner is being removed.

Creating More Workspace:

It is necessary to remove the CAC to inlet manifold pipe (drivers side) i.e. the wide, black pipe bolted to the top of the engine, to gain access to the P.S. pump and move the Engine Coolant Resevoir to one side.
Also, to make the process easier and create additional space, it may be helpful to remove the following additional items from the car:

fuel filter (and plastic retaining clip).
oil filter (to make access easier to the nuts bolts and pipes from below the car)
the EGR cooler connection pipe (optional).

Essential Items:

15mm Deep, Hex Socket and large 15mm Ring Spanner - tensioner mounting nuts
E8 Torx Spanner for removing 3 studs with T40 Torx ends (method 2 only)
18mm (or 3/8W, 7/16BS) Crowfoot wrench for removing union nut on HP pipe power steering pump. (method 1 only)
10mm ring or combination spanners, long and short (P.S. Pump).
10mm, hex socket ( narrower 3/8" drive preferred) - power steering pump bolts (Methods 1 and 2)
Hose Clamp (clamping bottom hose power steering pump)
Teflon seal / o-ring for union on HP Line, Power Steering Pump or new union (See Notes 2 & 3)

Teflon O-ring:

Here is a general description of the "external" O-ring on the Power Steering Pump HP union. Someone may be able to find a supplier for the o-rings on the Internet Note that the "internal" black, rubber o-ring is also an integral part of the replacement union.

Colour: White
Material: Teflon (PTFE)
Cross Sectional Area: 1mm x 1mm (square)
Outside Diameter .......... 16.5mm
Inside Diameter .............14.5mm

Note that sizes are approximate as the o-ring may have expanded slightly as I was removing it from the union. The diameter of the groove the o-ring sits in is 14mm.

Replacing the Tensioner:
Method 1: Remove the tensioner from the car by removing power steering pump. Here the power steering pump is drained and removed from the car:
Tip: Clamp the bottom hose on the power steering pump before detaching hose to minimise loss of fluid, then follow the instructions for removing the power steering pump in the Haynes manual.
Note: To undo the tight (48ftlbs) union nut on the high pressure pipe it will be necessary to have handy an 18mm crowfoot wrench/spanner with a 3/8 drive that can be used with a socket wrench and/or torque wrench (not cheap to buy). Also, I found the very strong spring clip on the rubber, power steering pump inlet hose (the bottom hose) easier to loosen from beneath the car. The pipe comes off quite easy by twisting it backwards and forwards while at the same time, pulling down.
Method 2: Remove the tensioner without removing the power steering pump: Here the power steering pump is unbolted from the tensioner but not drained of fluid. Instead it is pushed to one side out the way while the tensioner is being removed:
1) Remove the fuel filter and plastic support clip and move the power steering fluid reservoir to the space left by the fuel filter. Unbolt the power steering pump and move to the left (there is lots of space behind the engine where the pump can be housed while the tensioner is being removed).
Note: The rubber inlet pipe on the PS Pump may hinder the removal and replacement of the bottom, offside, 10mm bolt which is why I recommend using a narrower, 3/8" drive 10mm socket for removing the bolt.
2) Unbolt the tensioner and remove the studs using a E8 torx spanner.
3) From above, remove the tensioner from the car. (The tensioner may be too bulky to remove it from below the car).
Note 1: I tried the second method first but the studs were too tight and couldn't get them out. I ended up removing the tensioner using method 1.
Note 2: The white Teflon (square-section) o-ring on the power steering pump union, which is "crushed" when the nut is tightened, is not available as a separate item from ford. It comes already fitted to the replacement union but can be fairly easily removed with a degree of care and diligence The union itself is an easy "snap-on" / push fit connection to the HP line. However removing the old union requires a special tool only available at ford service outlets and cannot be removed in any other way, as far as I am aware, without damaging the line. (PS: A very good website for Teflon (PTFE) o-rings is McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). However, had I had the necessary tools available at the time to remove the 3 tensioner studs, I would have opted to replace the tensioner using the other method .
Note 3: The Teflon O-ring expanded while I was trying to get it on using a tool I had fabricated using a Heinz baked been tin. I ended up having to take the o-ring off again and shrink it down by immersing it in hot water then leaving it on the table to cool. I abandoned using the home made tool and put the o-ring on in the same way I took it off originally, by nudging it over the threads while cold.
If you are able to get the power steering pump union off the HP line, do so. It would be far simpler to replace the old union, if you have the ford special tool, than it is to replace the Teflon o-ring. If anyone knows where this ford special tool can be obtained please let us know. Also, it may even be possible to make one if I new what one looked like.
Conclusions:
Each method has its pros and cons. Method 2 is the cheapest and possibly the "safest" method as you don't need to buy power steering fluid (£10.00) , buy a new union (£10.00) or replace a damaged O-ring (if you can obtain one) and there's no bleeding operation necessary at the end. However removing the 3 tensioner mounting studs could be a difficult job especially if the studs have become seized in the engine block.
Method 1 is, in my opinion the most troublesome. Worst case scenario you may have to renew the HP line if it accidentally gets damaged while trying to get the union off. You also will most certainly have to buy a new union, power steering fluid and bleed the system at the end. However, I think that this may be the preferred or chosen method more often adopted by garages and if you can't remove the tensioner mounting studs, you will have to revert to this method for removing the tensioner. (If you decide take it to a garage, it may be advisable to take it to a ford outlet as other garages may not have the necessary tools to do the job properly).

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