schematics and diagrams: Water shoots out of overflow pipe on Ford Truck?

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Basically its not the thermostat problem,but still first inspect the thermostat and confirm.
That usually signifies that your cooling system is overheated or over-pressurized.
1. You may have a head gasket leak that is pressurizing the system.
2. Possibly an air lock in the system that is causing it to overheat and over pressurize the system.
3. Or like you said the water pump is not circulating the water and the engine is overheating and over pressurizing the system.
You wouldn't always have a noticable amount of oil in the water from a blown head gasket.
Sometimes you can see air bubbles/foam if you have the radiator cap off and the engine is warm enough to open the thermostat and circulate the water. Lisle makes a Combustion Leak Detector.You can buy one from them.
To check for and air lock you need to find the highest point in the cooling system and try to bleed off any air that is trapped. Usually this point is the radiator cap and if it is then you probably do not have an air lock. BUT, on some vehicles the radiator cap is not the highest point. Those vehicles are usually supplied with a specific air bleed located on top of the engine. They are usually labeled with instructions.

A water pump can have a broken or coroded impeller making the coolant flow too slowly to carry the BTU's that needs to carried off. This usually would allow the user to operate the vehicle for the normal amount of time it would take to reach thermostat opening tempurature, so if it builds presure too quickly or overheats very quickly this may not be the problem. The normal amount of coolant flow through the system depends of the speed of the waterpump at that time, and the position of the thermostat. An egine turning 3000 and a thermostat wide open would produce a flow of about 2 - 3 quarts per 10 seconds. More for larger engines like, say, a v-10 viper.
Or there may be too many BTU's for the system to contend with, like for example, a leaking cylinder head gasket, cracked head/block or something like that which would allow very hot combustion gasses to enter the coolant stream adding huge BTU values to the system as well as increasng the coolant internal presures forcing the radiator cap to "pop" and relieve the system presure into the overflow bottle. In essence, a leaking headgasket acts like a cutting torch shooting hot combustion gasses into the coolant. The amount of time it takes for the system to overpresurize or over heat is a good indicator of coolant being exposed to combustion gasses. The cooling system can be checked for combustion gasses.
Or perhaps the heat being carried is not being effectively removed from the coolant. A radiator can become "sludged" up with stuff and litterally not be able to cool the coolant in the amount of time that the coolant is in the radiator. Sometimes a coolnt flush can help this, but it is only temporary. If the engine is normally producing, say, 250,000 BTU's per minute then the radiator must be able to carry at least twice that amount away durring heat exchanging.
This are few clarifying questions to help you to find the problem.
How long can you run the engine before it either overheats or starts overflowing the coolant?
Does the system presure increase very much when the engine is first started cold?
Is the radiator cap relieving the presure at the specified value?
Do the radiator fans work when needed? If the engine overheats rapidly when started I don't think the fans are an issue unless that is why the engine overheated in the first place taking out the head-gaskets.

Following this basic procedure will help you to confirm the problem.
Thanks.

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